Weekend break: Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin
Pointing out bullet holes is one way to grab someone’s attention so a history tour that opens with these is bound to be worth checking out.
A quick city break has almost become synonymous with a flurry of shopping.
But with the high streets in many cities dominated by virtually the same chain stores you might need something extra to make you feel like you aren’t just on a quick dash around town on your lunch break.
So the historical audio walking tour offered by The Fitzwilliam Hotel in the heart of Dublin is just the thing.
And as your right in the city centre it’s easy to fit in museum trips – or those shops – on the same day.
You don’t get much more central than St Stephen’s Green and The Fitzwilliam Hotel is right there facing the park – and it’s just a few steps away from Grafton Street.
The bustle of the street outside and the lively atmosphere in the foyer is fun, but many of the rooms actually face a quiet, enclosed garden area and you’d hardly know you were in a city when you go to bed.
THE AMENITIES
There’s complimentary wi-fi – extremely handy and should really be standard in all hotels. But it’s the little touches that stand out.
Sometimes the weather doesn’t care if you’re on a short break so a concierge offering loans of umbrellas is just what you need.
And a big hi to Josefina on the front desk – she’s from Argentina and won my son over with chat about the time she met Lionel Messi.
Even though she was definitely busy she still took time to admire my little girl’s pink docs and wave up at our four-year-old on the glass walkway above reception every time he took a notion to give her a shout.
THE FOOD
Food nostalgia can spark an hour-long conversation or give relative strangers something to bond over.
Trust me, I’ve debated the merits of Chickadees vs Barry McGuigan crisps and I’ve been as thrilled to rediscover Fruit Salad sweets and Highland Toffee bars as anyone.
Sadly, part of reminiscing about food of your childhood is admitting that some of it was quite a bit removed from farmers’ markets and slow-cooking – Smash and Angel Delight anyone?
But what if a talented chef took some 70s and 80s food favourites and recreated them using fresh ingredients and without a factory production line?
Well, you’d get the menu at the Fitzwilliam Hotel’s Citron Restaurant.
From crispy pancakes to duck a l’orange – all the old favourites are here, and they’re definitely better than you remember.
The ‘spam’ is actually pressed real ham, egg mayo, pickles and toast. And the pea soup is served with goat’s cheese, black olive and mint.
I couldn’t resist the mac and cheese – but this one, served with wild mushrooms, gruyere cheese and proper crispy garlic bread was a world away from backpacking fare.
Desserts were fun too. Head chef, Philip Mahon has succeeded in creating treats that somehow manage to be gourmet but simultaneously unpretentious.
Check out the profiteroles or the peach melba if you don’t believe me.
And if you’re so over food served on slabs of wood or slate – or chips arriving at your table in a mini shopping trolley or a chichi ‘bucket’ – then you’ll be delighted to see real plates.
The full menu is available for €39 and two courses are €32. There’s also a pre-theatre menu on offer for €25pp as well as an a la carte menu.
WHAT TO DO
Here’s a chance to brush up on your 1916 history by actually checking out the famous and historic landmarks while you do it.
Historian and author, Donal Fallon, has created a walking tour that will bring you on a historical loop around St Stephen’s Green, Kildare Street and Grafton Street.
It only takes 30 minutes but it’s a podcast you download to whatever device you use so you can pause the guided tour any time you spot something you want to check out in more detail.
Donal’s passion for his subject really shines as he picks out quirky details along the route.
It definitely helps that he has a friendly manner and a pleasant voice – I’ve heard some hilariously pompous museum audio tours in my time.
The walking tour starts just across the street from the Fitzwilliam at the impressive-looking Fusiliers’ Arch entrance to St Stephen’s Green park.
The arch is named in honour of royal Dublin Fusiliers to commemorate their involvement in the Boer war.
The monument actually has links to two very different wars – there’s its official purpose as its inscribed with the names of men who died fighting in South Africa but it also bears the scars of another war.
Donal points out that you can very clearly see the marks from machine gun fire from the end of the 1916 Easter Rising when the Park was occupied by revolutionaries.
It definitely makes a difference to walk through the areas mentioned in history books as you hear about their significance. And what better time to give this a go than this Easter?
THE ROOMS
I loved the combination of deep purple and lime green in the modern and fresh-feeling bedrooms – and my kids thought the arty black and white print of a bum was hilarious.
They were also impressed with the goodie bags – though looking at the wonky toy I helped them create with the giant pipe-cleaners it contained, perhaps I should have held off on that wine.
THE BOTTOM LINE
It’s not a low-budget hotel but you are right in the heart of things which can be just golden when you’re on a short trip and want to catch up with friends, hit the shops, and get to activities quickly.
Keep an eye out for packages and offers.
There’s an Easter family package at The Fitzwilliam Hotel which starts from €359 for a family room and breakfast. Your family will get headphones at the front desk and can download the free Dublin city walking tour.
Also the hotel is offering a 10% discount for one night and 15% for two nights over Easter.
www.fitzwilliamhoteldublin.com
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