Large in scale, local in heart, Toronto oozes charm
From winter sports to winegrowing; skyscrapers to beaches; luxury goods to local market fare, there’s a good reason why it’s ranked as one of the world’s best places to live. For visitors though, it’s a question of making like the locals (all 2.8 million of them) and sussing out the neighbourhoods that best deliver on a holiday bucket list.
Luckily, the lie of the land is fairly straightforward. Yonge, Toronto’s major north-south artery, divides the city’s east and west. Oh, and it just so happens to be the longest street in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records. A helpful fact if navigating the city’s 630 square kilometres by foot.
The best place to start? Downtown at Yonge-Dundas Square (Ydsquare.ca) — Times Square’s Canadian cousin and major metropolitan landmark. Apart from offering free Wi-Fi and a year-round roster of free concerts, films and events, the square is also host to The Eaton Centre (Torontoeastoncentre.com) — a six-storey shopping mecca boasting more than 230 stores (including Michael Kors and J.Crew) and one million visitors per week. Take the interior passages of the mall to PATH, the world’s largest underground retail complex, for a hermetically-sealed retail experience with more than 1,200 shops and services over a 30-kilometre pedestrian network. Once you’ve scratched that spending itch, take to the streets for a spot of sightseeing.
If you are concerned about weather-proofing your plans, simply look skywards. The Canada Life’s illuminating towers doubles as a weather vane. Lights flash in sequence to show a slowly rising, fast-rising, slowly dropping or rapidly dropping temperature along with a colour-coded rain (red) or shine (green) forecast.
Got the green light? Why not walk to the adjacent Entertainment district. En route, pick up a Timmy and some Timbits (that’s a coffee and miniature doughnut combo) courtesy of the Tim Hortons coffee chain — a de facto Canadian institution. Not that you’ll need the caffeine-sugar rush. Once you arrive at Front Street West, home of the CN Tower, Toronto’s most famous landmark, you’ll understand why. At 1,814 feet, it held the record for the world’s tallest building and freestanding structure for over 30 years to an observation deck featuring a glass floor 1,122 feet above ground. Want to get really high? Sample the EdgeWalk ( www.Edgewalkcntower.ca ). Guests rocket to the top of the tower in a glass fronted elevator in 58 seconds highest full circle hands-free walk on a five foot wide ledge encircling the top of the Tower’s main pod, 1,168 feet (116 storeys) above the ground.
Prefer your thrills closer to ground level? Catch a baseball game at the Rogers Centre (known as the SkyDome), home to the major league’s Toronto Blue Jays. While you’re there grab some poutine (French fries topped with gravy and cheese curds) between innings and look up at the CN Tower through the retractable roof.
If the excitement proves too much, consider a more leisurely pace at the neighbouring Harbourfront district. Kayak on Lake Ontario or tour the harbour with Mariposa Cruises ( www.Mariposacruises.com ), taking in the Toronto Islands — Canada’s largest car free community (650 residents) and Canada’s Sugar Beach (a former parking lot turned urban seaside haunt).
Feeling thirsty? Drop anchor at Amsterdam Brew House ( www.Amsterdambrewhouse.com ) — a seven-minute stroll away on Queens Quay West, pioneers of Ontario’s craft-brewing industry in the 80s. Choose from the pop-up beer calendar where limited edition artisan batches are brewed on site (think Darjeeling Wit or Citra hopped pale ale). Bit of a beer snob? Tickle those taste buds with recommended food pairings. That Classic Ontario brisket cheese burger is made for a crisp pint; while the bitterness of hops suits sweet yam frites.
For a less calorific pairing of art and cinema, hop the eastbound 504 King streetcar to the Distillery Historic District ( www.TheDistilleryDistrict.com ). Located on the site of the former Gooderham & Worts distillery, the cobble stone lanes and Victorian industrial buildings have been featured in over 1,700 films. Pedestrianised since 2003, the area boasts a distinctly European feel (think Italian piazza) and is the only village dedicated to entertainment, arts and culture with its 19 artists’ studios, 17 art galleries and three theatres.
Incurable epicures should loosen their belts and head west to Front Street East to experience the 200-year old St Lawrence Market ( www.Saintlawrencemarket.com ). Voted the number one food market in the world by National Geographic; what was once the official City Hall of Toronto is now a citadel to local ‘Hogtown’ fare. Don’t leave without lining up at the counter of the Carousel Bakery for an award-winning “World Famous Peameal Bacon Sandwich” — a Toronto tradition. Add in a sinfully gooey butter tart (arguably Canada’s unofficial national dessert), and you’ve got a two-prong foodie experience. Prefer a visual feast? Head to Kensington Market (look for the red pole topped with a black cat on a chair) — Toronto’s bohemian stomping ground and current seat of the city’s counterculture. Take in the kaleidoscope Victorian houses converted into tattoo parlours, New Age and retro stores, not to mention its panoply of ethnic food fare and street art. Hangouts are thick and plenty but one hidden gem — Cold Tea — makes the insider’s hit list. For a cocktail, navigate past the second-hand clothing rails and bric-a-brac stalls in Kensington Mall. For haute hippie chic, head north of Bloor Street to Yorkville — Kensington’s posher neighbour. Its 60s beatnik roots and history as a hub for musical talents like Joni Mitchell have been replaced by condo owners; paparazzi and visiting stars from The Toronto Film Festival. Now one of Canada’s most fashionable shopping areas, Yorkville is associated with luxury department stores.
Year round non-stop Dublin-Toronto flights operate with Air Canada Rouge. Return economy flights from €803.57 incl taxes (Aircanadarougecom).
Buy a Toronto Transit Commission day pass ($10.50) for unlimited travel on weekends and holidays for two adults and up to four kids.
Keep it central at Toronto’s Eaton Chelsea hotel. Located downtown, just two blocks from Dundas Square, the Eaton is Canada’s largest hotel, offering 1,590 rooms and suites from $159 per room per night (excl. tax.)
Toronto’s manifold attractions make it a year-round holiday destination. Summers average at a humid 26°C but prepare for lows of -7°C in winters with snow a regular feature.
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* The Art Gallery of Ontario’s premier collection of Canadian art featuring the famous Group of Seven.
* Marvel at the 10,000 panes of 24 carat-plated glass which make up the Royal Bank of Canada.
* Download the See Toronto app to get the scoop on what to see and do.
Worldwide holiday specialist Travelmood offers late packages to Jamaica for the remainder of the month and also in November with prices pitched from €1,799. Upgrades are available from €60 per night for specific accommodation. See www.travelmood.ie
Flying from Cork and Shannon with Click and Go will be cheaper for a few weeks. The company has reviewed prices and reports savings of €50 to Faro in the Algarve. In some cases savings can stretch to €150 by travelling out of Cork or Shannon against Dublin. See full details on www.ClickandGo.com
Head to Vancouver this autumn and take a “Journey through the Clouds” on the Rocky Mountaineer — a luxury train journey through the Pacific Northwest and the Canadian Rockies. Celebrating 25 years in business, Topflight has five unique routes to choose from. Details on www.topflight.ie
Walking enthusiasts may be interested in a once-off Camino De Santiago autumn special offer on August 30 with Dublin departure. The seven-night self-guided walk with flights and accommodation comes in at €699 and is available from www.travelnet.ie — telephone 021 4851700.
Through the Irish Travel Agents Association comes a combined Orlando land/cruise package on August 28 for 10 nights from €1,199 per person. After three nights ashore, guests travel on the Freedom of the Seas and visit Haiti, Jamaica and Mexico. For more see www.itaa.ie/orlando-caribbean-cruise-2
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