Get ready to be inspired in Toronto
IT DOESN’T have the awe-inspiring vistas of Vancouver, the European culture of Montreal, or the rugged coast of Nova Scotia. But somehow, Toronto, Canada’s largest city, has it all.
I’ve lived in Toronto for two years, so can vouch that if it’s a rocking city vibe with culture, cuisine and coolness you’re after, this is the place to be.
On first glance Canada’s economic engine, dubbed ‘the working town’, can seem like a cold urban centre.
But there’s a lot more to this city than meets the eye. And that’s its beauty; scratch the surface and you’ll be rewarded.
Let’s be honest though, we can’t talk about Toronto without mentioning the elephant in the room. Or the crack-smoking mayor even.
Coverage of the Rob Ford story put Toronto on the map for better or worse. South of the border, his antics made for the most popular Canadian news story since the turn of the century.
Many commentators believed the unseemly debacle (the mayor last week took a leave of absence after yet another video of him smoking crack surfaced) was harming the city; hurting tourism. In fact, Toronto hit all-time highs in 2013 for the number of overseas visitors and the number of hotel rooms sold.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying the upswing is because of Rob Ford. But his downward spiral thankfully has not harmed the great city he purports to represent.
The main takeaway here — book early to avoid disappointment and dollars because Toronto is a not just a working town but, come summer, a hopping tourist destination.
Part of the commonwealth, Canadians are closer in temperament to Brits than Yanks and are more reserved than their north American counterparts. All in all, that’s not really a bad thing.
But there is a snag to not being the US — prices. Toronto, and Canada in general, is not cheap. There’s two taxes — federal and provincial — on everything and it can be a shock when you go to pay, so be prepared for that.
Another practical tip: late spring and summer (which lasts well into Sept) really is the only time to hit T.O.
Canadian winters are long and cruel and can extend well into April. But come May a different city emerges from its winter hangover.
Bars and restaurants throw open their full-length windows for ‘patio season’. The sun gleams off the top of the globally-recognised CN Tower and activity on the great lake ranges from paddle boarding to kayaking and fine dining.
Festivals come to town during the summer months. From the Taste of Toronto to the heaving party that is Caribana, or the annual Toronto Jazz festival, there’s revelry to suit all tastes.
This year Toronto will host the first WorldPride celebration, in its fourth year, ever held in North America.
As culturally diverse a city as you’ll find — it’s home to 30% of Canada’s recent immigrants — a visit to Toronto makes for a kaleidoscopic ride in terms of food, fashion and the fabric of the city.
The downtown core is easy to navigate, but just when you think you have it all sussed there’s yet another cool neighbourhood to check out.
Hit Greek Town for some sumptuous chicken souvlaki; Little Italy for cuisine from the old country, and Chinatown, or even Koreatown for something more exotic.
Toronto’s most recent influx of Irish hasn’t spawned an ‘Irish town’ just yet, but if it’s a taste of home you are after there’s a lot of options, from Dora Keoghs on the Danforth, to PJ O’Brien’s downtown, or for the younger set, An Sibín, located on Queen St East.
Further east still, the Distillery District is well worth a look.
Almost set apart from the rest of the city, it’s a pedestrian-only enclave where you can browse through eateries, art galleries or jewellery and craft shops housed in Victorian-era red brick buildings. Pop into the Mill St brewery, which boasts a beer hall and excellent restaurant. Here you can sample a wide range of the finest craft beers — try the Cobblestone stout if you’re a Guinness fan.
Foodies will enjoy a market-style lunch at the largest Marché Restaurant in the world. Located across from Hockey Hall of Fame, Marché allows you to create a custom gourmet meal and go back for more as many times as you can manage.
Or down the road, there’s the St Lawrence Market which has over 50 food speciality vendors. It carries on a century-old tradition of hosting a Saturday farmers market and on Sundays more than 80 antique dealers fill the building.
Hockey fans should head to Wayne Gretzky’s place on Blue Jays Way for the memorabilia alone.
Apart from food and drink, summer downtown happens at the Harbourfront, a 10-acre site along the shores of Lake Ontario.
In the shadow of the soaring CN Tower you can stroll the boardwalk, hang out in the newly developed parks, check out what’s on at the Harbourfront Centre from an extensive list of free events, or catch a water taxi or ferry to Toronto’s islands.
Charming and with a real old-world feel, the islands are a unique city experience. In what other major city do you get to hop on a ferry for ten minutes and land in a chilled out car-free zone?
The islands feature an array of waterways and beaches (including a clothing optional one), spectacular views of the city and wide open green spaces.
The most popular is Centre Island, which features picnic areas, a maze, a beach and award-winning gardens. It’s also got an amusement park for the younger ones with 30 rides, a petting zoo featuring farm animals and pony rides. The three major islands are connected by a tram system. Or you can bike, rollerblade or just saunter at your own pace.
Back on the main land, there’s no shortage, or variety, of walks either.
For scenic strolls head for the Beaches neighbourhood in the east end, or leafy High Park in the west end.
For those who really want to get stuck in, Toronto has an extensive trail network where you can hike, bike and even horseride. The trails (see Toronto.ca for details) wind through forest and wetlands and you can spot wildlife form herons to hawks.
If you are more of a thrill seeker, then Canada’s Wonderland will be on your to-do list.
A 45-minute drive outside the city, it’s got one of the biggest rollercoasters in North America. There’s water rides too if you need to cool down from the humid summer heat.
If that’s not enough for the dare devils in your group — what about hanging off the edge of the CN Tower? Yes, you can do it. And it’s not as outlandish as it sounds.
The tower itself is a engineering wonder and there’s spectacular views from three observation levels. The newest facet to the tower is the Edge Walk, a more expensive option, but it’ll give you a fresh perspective of the city if nothing else. You literally do hang off the edge of top of the tower. Take it from someone who’s been there: It’s scary but very, very safe.
The new kid in town in terms of attractions is undoubtedly Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada which opened late last year.
Conveniently located downtown it boasts 15,000 aquatic animals and North America’s longest underwater viewing tunnel.
Escaping from the city is something all Torontonians love to do.
If you’ve got the time, try and head for cottage country, a luscious playground for jaded city dwellers.
Just a few hours north of the city, come Friday afternoon the exodus begins.
Once you’re there you’ll see why. Think the Cotswold’s meets the Lake District.
Quaint towns called Bracebridge and Huntsville surround picturesque lakes and countryside in what is known as the Muskoka region. National Geographic once named it the number one best summer travel destination in the world.
Last but certainly not least, just an hour south of Toronto towards the US lie the gushing mesmerising waters of Niagara Falls.
The falls need no introduction or explaining. Just going to look at them is enough but there’s a whole industry built around the falls, from helicopter rides to boat trips to a walk that takes you behind the rushing waters. It’s worth doing.
As you wend your way back to the city, take time to stop of in Niagara-on-the-Lake, a quaint town, where the Niagara River meets Lake Ontario, full of inns, history and heritage.
The Niagara region itself is home to a thriving wine industry, with over 90 wineries. One of those is Ravine Vineyard, an eight-hectare farm that lies on the ancient Niagara river bed and features an onsite restaurant and oyster bar.
Or if you’ve timed it right, stop for sunset at the Lake House Restaurant where you can watch from an outdoor deck as the shining miniature city across the lake turns pink.
Heavenly.
Aer Lingus operates daily direct flights between Dublin and Toronto during the summer season and up to four flights weekly in winter. Customers have the option to connect to eight key cities within Canada including Vancouver, Montreal and Calgary.
Fares start from €239 each way including taxes and charges. www. aerlingus.com
The Eaton Chelsea is in the heart of Toronto and is steps from amazing attractions, theatre and shopping. The hotel features four restaurants and lounges, and separate adult and family recreation areas and pools – including the “Corkscrew” – downtown Toronto’s only indoor waterslide.
For upscale boutiques head for the Bloor-Yorkville neighbourhood. Holt Renfrew is Canada’s answer to Brown Thomas.
For mainstream shopping downtown there’s the Eaton Centre, a bright and airy mall that houses more than 250 stores.
If you are looking for something different or vintage head for Queen St West.
Note: the truly cool are now at West Queen West (between Bathurst Ave. and Niagara St). For those on a budget, Kensington Market has a plethora of retro shops, cheap and used clothing stores.
Former Irish International Trevor Brennan and TV pundit Brent Pope will lead an 18-day luxury tour of Brazil, Chile and Argentina departing May 31 that takes in Ireland’s two rugby games against Argentina in Resistencia and Tucuman. Details: www.trevorbrennanrugbytours.com
Irish Ferries have launched a fares initiative on Irish Sea services for bookings made by May 26. An extra passenger travels free with car/driver. Prices from €79 on all sailings up to January 30 next. Sailings to France are from €99 up to June 16 and from August 11 to December 17.
Contiki Holidays for 18-35’s have an eight-night tour of Eastern Europe taking in the cities of Krakow and Budapest and Slovenia’s Ljubljana before finishing in Venice and Rome. The land-based package is from €818. Add around €300 for flights ex-Dublin. visit www.contiki.com
Crystal Summer have a selection of packages to destinations including Italy, Austria and Slovenia. Flights ex-Dublin with prices from €445. There’s a May 31 departure to Italy and Lake Garda, and June 4 flights to take in Mayyrhofen and Kranjska Gora. www.crystalsummer.ie
Irish company e-travel have launched www.eflights.ie, a price comparison system which tags over 150 airlines worldwide on a secure system.
Best price examples from Dublin last week were €480 for Orlando, €471 for New Delhi and €571 for Bangkok.
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