From darkness to enlightenment in Norway

IT’S COLDER than you have ever imagined night air could be.

The snow underneath your boots creaks with dryness.

Above, the sky is a vast black dome, scattered with stars brighter and clearer than they ever are at home. Drawing in a breath is an icy shock to the system. What are we doing out here at midnight for heaven’s sake, when we could be warmly tucked up?