Connemara's the Quay House perfect place to explore idyllic village
“Welcome to Connemara,” he said, rescue dog wagging a tale in agreement. We were off to a great start.
It was a long-ish drive from Cork and the road from Galway city to Clifden appeared to drag, nonetheless it is a beautiful spin through a landscape of lakes and mountains. We were, however, happy to check in to ‘The Jolly Room’ at The Quay House, tucked away nicely in a quiet corner of the harbour in this quaint village.
As a result of the Celtic Tiger there are many, many fine hotels to stay in all over the country, equipped with all the latest gadgets and gismos — saunas, steam rooms, beauty parlours, swimming pools, waterbeds and huge rooms, all clinical looking and all very fine. But after spending two nights in The Quay House, a wonderful and exciting example of what Hidden Ireland — a fascinating collection of historic country houses — have to offer, I can say without fear or favour that none of the Tiger’s pups come within a Tiger’s roar of a hidden gem like this one.
The Hidden Ireland stable ranges from this island’s grandest and most important Georgian buildings to charming rural rectories, but they are united by their owners’ commitment to traditional hospitality and service. The Quay House delivers on that.
Built for the Harbour Master nearly 200 years ago, my hidden beauty is Clifden’s oldest building at c1820. It later became a Franciscan monastery, then a convent and finally a hotel owned by the Pye family. Situated on a slip road, called Beach Walk, which takes you to the lifeboat station and the open sea, it was bought by Paddy Foyle (whose forebears have been entertaining guests in Connemara for nearly a century) and his wife Julia, 21 years ago, sensitively restored, and now offers guest accommodation in 14 bedrooms (all different) with full bathrooms. All but two overlook the harbour.
An impressive white clematis Alba almost deservedly overshadowed the many Bridgestone plaques on the outside wall, a few metres from the quay which shelters all sizes of colourful fishing boats. Family portraits, period furniture, cosy fires and a uniquely warm Irish welcome make for an atmosphere of comfort right from the off. One literally lifts the latch of the front door and walks in. No security fobs, security guards or laser beams, just ring a charming bell at the end of the information-packed corridor and out come the owners, who are always on hand for advice on fishing, golfing, riding, walking, swimming, sailing and dining.
Every room at The Quay House is individually furnished with some good antiques and original paintings; several have working fireplaces. All have large bathrooms with tubs and showers and there are also two ground floor rooms for wheelchair users.
Ours had a TV/DVD player and tea/coffee making facilities. It was beautifully furnished and decorated — luscious linen, white tapestry bedspread, duck egg blue wooden wall panelling. The walls must have been sound-proofed, not a whispering American tourist could be heard. Our room had a huge antique mirror behind the bed, above the fireplace were books by Jane Eyre, Jennifer Johnstone and TS Elliot. The scent from a living room turf fire fills the house, adding to that cosy feeling.
Breakfast, which is included in the price, is between 8am and 10am in an adjoining glass conservatory, which not alone served up a very nice breakfast, smoked salmon, eggs benedict, scrambled eggs, smoked haddock — but a sumptuous Virginia Creeper which covered the room.
Guests sit around during the day or in the evening talking and sampling the Foyle’s homemade lemon cake.
The village, and its many charms, is a five minute walk away. So many fine places to eat, catering for all tastes from Guys Bar where you’ll get a very fine fish and chips for €15.50 or beef burger with cheddar, bacon, lettuce tomato and relish for €13.95.
Across the road is the family-owned Foyle Hotel, which houses the Marconi Restaurant, run by Paddy’s nephew Stephen. He has inherited the family’s penchant for quality service, fine food and friendly faces.
An example of his fine fare includes mussels steamed in a chilli and coconut broth €7.50; crispy fried fish cakes served on mixed leaves with a caper and lemon mayonnaise, €8.95. Main course included pan-fried hake with parsley and lemon butter, €18.95; pan-fried fillets of sea bass in garlic and lemon butter set on wilted spinach, €19.95.
Ballyconneely golf club is nearby, so is the beach, kayaking and deep sea fishing.
Quaint nick-knack shops are almost as plentiful as the American tourists.
Unusually for a village there are several art galleries and of course a tourist spot like this has the usual craft shops. Super Valu, Lidl and Aldi are in situ.
Kylemore Abbey is a must, as is it’s amazing restaurant. Quality food and jams and pastries to die for. Take the very informative tour.
The Connemara railway stopped off in Clifden from 1845 to 1935. The station now houses a cafe and museum.
Fly to the Aran Islands from Connemara airport in eight minutes. Take the road to Roundstone from Clifden, it’s gorgeous, even on a bad day. It has it all — sea, mountains, lakes, beaches, wonderful marine and mountain colours. Dog’s Bay is a delight.
Travel Bóthar na Spéire, the Sky Road out of Clifden, which takes you on a wonderful 10-minute journey to a viewing point where you’ll see more donkeys than you’ll have seen... well, in donkey’s years. It boasts a jagged coastline, patchwork fields, spectacular views of the Atlantic, Clifden Bay to the south, Streamstown Bay to the north. It is 150m above sea level at Slynn Head. There are views of Inisturk to the west and Turbot Island. You’ll pass the derelict castle of John D’Arcy, founder of Clifden. To the east is Ballyconneely. Alcock and Brown on the first transatlantic flight, landed at nearby Lough Fadda in 1919 and not far away is the Marconi wireless station 1907. Further along the coast road is Cleggan pier and then it’s on to Abbey, Letterfrack and Lenaune. The place is a name-dropping and jaw-dropping wonder land.
Bed and breakfast from €125 sharing but look what you are getting for that.
Look out for ‘Banjo’ and ‘Blossom’, the Pug dogs who are as sociable as the owners. Spend time in the livingroom in the evening, it provides an excellent opportunity for mingling with guests from all corners of the globe.
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