Enjoying a spell of northern exposure
But, while the northern capital has in recent decades been known for anything other than relaxing living, a journey to the city in 2013 means a taste of the good life is now on the menu.
During a recent whistle-stop two-day trip organised by Northern Ireland’s Tourist Board, the Irish Examiner was given a glimpse of how the rich and famous live when they venture to Belfast.
Suites in the five-star Merchant Hotel, complete with jazz bar, Victorian grandeur and walk-in-wardrobes; VIP trips to the new Andy Warhol exhibit; and high-quality restaurants immediately followed, making it all feel a bit... un-Belfast.
But this contradiction between relaxed living and the history-influenced character the city is infamous for is what makes the northern capital such an attractive — and easily accessible — weekend break destination. Regardless of whether you are a political buff, art nut, history obsessive or just want some time away to relax, the city which has received such bad press over the decades is proving it has so much more than you think to offer.
First-time visitors from the Republic are likely to have some concerns over the recent flag protests and the potential danger it brings.
But the reality is these problems are by and large confined to isolated areas, with the city centre itself feeling just like any other cosmopolitan location. Our tour started with the Enterprise train from Connolly Station, Dublin, northwards — a relatively short two hour journey with online fares from just €15.
On arrival, we were whisked through the city by one of the official taxis — found at the back of the station, and which are the safest bet to ensure a genuine fare — before being dropped off at the Merchant Hotel.
At prices between €200 and €400 per night it doesn’t come cheap, but if you have the money the five-star facility — where some of the world’s biggest pop stars stayed when the city hosted the 2011 MTV awards — has to be on the agenda. With panoramic views of the city, suites that feel more like apartments, private bars with drinks from around the globe and any other amenity you could wish for, the revamped facility should be the first option for those looking to splash out. Before you think your trusted newspaper has developed ideas above its station, it should be added that we also experienced a comfortable Travel Lodge offering all you will need at a competitive price, located just around the corner.
Why did we switch? Staying a day longer than the tour allowed to soak in more of the sights came with certain consequences.
Those sights are plentiful, and diverse. For history and political buffs, trips to Stormont and the recently opened Crumlin Road Gaol — a ghostly facility known intimately to some of Northern Ireland’s most famous and infamous names in recent history — is a must.
Combined, both offer an insight into the reality of the changes the province has undergone in recent decades, and underline the difficulty journey that has involved.
An organised bus tour around some of the city’s more entrenched estates will also give you the opportunity to see the notorious murals Belfast has to offer. These included that of a three story-sized sniper whose rifle appears to point at you regardless of your location, while a trip to the docklands-based Titanic centre can be easily fitted in on your return.
For those more interested in a different type of art to that which acted as a backdrop to the infamous acts north of the border, the modern Belfast also offers a highly regarded new arts venue, open 10am-7pm every day.
During our visit the brand new centre was home to a highly sought after 232-strong collection of Andy Warhol’s works. Other exhibits scheduled for later this summer include 30 years of Belfast photography and a production of Les Misérables.
After a rummage around all Belfast has to offer, the thought of some food and — let’s face facts — drink will be on tired minds. On this count the city once again doesn’t disappoint, with famous bars like the John Hewitt, named after the poet, socialist and freeman of the northern capital.
Opened in December 1999, the bar — which is owned by the Belfast Unemployed Resource Centre — is popular among all sections of society, and a regular haunt for live music.
Examples of the uniquely dark Belfast sense of humour are also likely to be heard in the city centre bar, all of which can’t be repeated in a family newspaper. Just try to remember the jokes aren’t meant to offend. Much.
For those wanting more of a taste of the high life the Merchant Hotel also offers a Jazz Bar, where expensive cocktails are on offer into the small hours of the night, and a whiskey bar.
For those looking to soak up some cuisine instead, Bert’s Jazz Bar can provide you with not only a beautiful meal at reasonable prices but can do so in a uniquely off-centre way — with all of the menus being contained in old comic strip covers. The latest high-end restaurant to hit Belfast, the Cathedral Quarter-based Coppi’s, named after famed Italian cyclist Angelo Fausto Coppi, is another must-visit location for foodies keen to taste the best of Belfast.
Belfast gets a lot of bad press, and admittedly sometimes it’s deserved. But anyone concerned by the various protests which inflict themselves on the city should not allow it to put you off.
Considering the still relatively recent nature of the Troubles, there are naturally some parts of Belfast that should be avoided.
But as long as your luggage contains the right amount of common sense, the northern capital will be a warm and welcoming place that on its best days will keep you fascinated with historical tales, gallows humour jokes and — if you want it — luxury living throughout your journey.
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