A piece of paradise
Since bidding farewell to the Irish winter my climate is fantastic and the weather is too, I can confirm. I’ve landed on the shores of the Arabian sea to meet friends in India’s smallest state, Goa, where chilling on the beach, massages, yoga classes and site-seeing are on the agenda.
Colonised by the spice-trading Portuguese in the 1500s and more recently by hippies in the 1960s, Goa’s colonial charms and beautiful beaches have stood the test of time and retained their appeal.
Much of the tropical state, 105km of coastline and 65km at the widest point, is covered in tropical forests, coconut plantations and paddy fields.
The temperature stays at a comfortable 30 degrees between the months of November and April, the sea is warm and the living is easy. The state is divided into North and South Goa, each with different attractions so it’s important to know the terrain.
In general, North Goa is busier and famed for its nightlife, while the south is much quieter and home to some of the regions most exclusive hotels.
I met my pals Yvonne and Kate at the hippy hangout of Arambol in North Goa. A few days on the beach were just what the doctor ordered for travel-weary bodies.
Sun loungers were in short supply but we found shade and beds outside a little shack serving good food and freshly squeezed fruit juice, while masseuses, beauticians, fruit sellers and sarong peddlers ambled along offering their wares.
Anita, a tiny little woman with a massive basket on her head, served mango, pineapple and coconut which she cut to order. The juice from the green coconuts is both tasty and extremely rich in minerals. Sonia from Goa gave me a one-hour full-body massage, on the beach and cleared Yvonne’s cold with a head massage. At a cost of €10 and €5 respectively, it was good for the body, mind and purse.
Holistic offerings are abundant in Goa with yoga classes, ayurvedic therapies and retreat centres in plentiful supply. Lured by promises of a clear mind and beautiful sleep, I upped my expenditure to €16 for the Shirodhara ayurvedic treatment massage which involved pouring warm oil on my forehead for half an hour. Alas, the desired outcomes were not achieved when I emerged from the little healing centre with my head sopping in oil, which took days to wash out.
Yoga classes were a hit and a great start to the days when up in time for sunrise. Several yoga disciplines are on offer, from an Iyengar yoga class that involves straps and blocks to help stretch you into position, to gentle hatha, aerobic ashtanga or suspended yoga, in a hammock.
Centres throughout Goa offer courses and retreats, but since we were visiting during peak season, Christmas time, most were fully booked.
In any case, we had successfully implemented our own regime which included a balanced blend of yoga, sunset cocktails and delicious dinners.
Gastronomically, Goa is a divine destination for lovers of seafood and Indian food. Small fishing boats work the beaches North and South, landing pomfret, kingfish, shark, tuna, prawns, mackerel and snappers.
Most restaurants have tandoor ovens, serving freshly caught seafood cooked on skewers over hot coals. Goan fish curry and rice is the tasty but runny staple diet of the locals.
The average restaurant menu in Goa will also feature Italian, Continental, Chinese, Israeli and Tibetan dishes, so there is something to suit everyone. Some of the best food is found in small shack restaurants which line the beaches.
Tandoori shark from Sunjays on Arambol beach was the holiday highlight. Ordered a day ahead and cooked to perfection, it was served with nan bread, salad and masala spiced vegetables.
Spices are a big feature on the menus of Goa and the state is home to a number of plantations. A visit to an organic spice plantation, 50km inland near the city of Ponda proved an educational sight seeing excursion for myself and my fun friend Charlie from Wicklow, who has been living in Goa for decades.
Cloves, curry leaves, cardamom, nutmeg, lemongrass, cinnamon, cashew nuts, coriander, peppercorns, vanilla and turmeric are all grown on the 150-acre farm.
Among the many interesting discoveries we learned that vanilla flowers have to be pollinated by man and have a gestation period of nine months, just like humans, before the pods are ready for harvest.
Elephant baths were a baffling addition to the tour itinerary at the spice farm. Visitors sit on the back of the gigantic animal who fills its trunk with water, then swings it back to shower the passenger. I wasn’t tempted to try this myself but the Indian children present looked to be thoroughly enjoying the experience.
Instead we opted to visit the nearby city of Ponda, home to the regions finest Hindu temples and gateway to Goa’s wildlife sanctuaries. Goa’s population of 1,344,000 comprises 65% Hindu and 29% Christian. Visiting a Hindu temple is a colourful affair and offerings of garlands of flowers, coconuts and sweets are made.
The Shanti Durga Temple is dedicated to the powerful feminine Hindu god and the main building has the appearance of a church. A smiling cross-legged holy man, sitting on the floor behind a gate in the altar area, blessed us with splashes of holy water. Happy with the Hindu blessing, we headed south to beautiful Benaulim beach in time for sunset. The next morning I cycled my bicycle along the shore line, which is one of the joys of the long stretch of beach.
Without moving a muscle, the shopping commenced and we bought kaftans, scarves and sarongs from women selling on the beach. Haggling over prices is essential and the state is stuffed with shops selling anything from souvenirs to Kashmiri carpets and diamonds.
Every Wednesday and Saturday traders from all corners of India and a sprinkling of Europeans set up stall at Anjuna flea market, the former hippy hang-out that’s also famed for its wild trance parties. Kashmiri’s and Tibetans join the exotic melee of sellers offering leather wear, jewellery, clothing, shoes, colourful Indian wall hangings, Tibetan paintings, pashmina shawls, hand bags, cushion covers, freshly squeezed juices, corn on the cob, spices, teas, balloons, puppets and every conceivable trinket known to humanity. Live musicians add to the buzz on market days and nights and tourists travel from all corners of Goa for this outdoor retail therapy experience.
Getting to Goa requires effort and expense. Vaccinations are essential for travel to any part of India, although Goa is low risk for some infections.
Travel insurance is a must and a visa from the Indian embassy in Dublin costs €50. However, holidaying in Goa requires little effort and very little expense. The tandoori shark dinner cost €15 between three of us and cocktails flow at €2.50. Yoga classes are priced from free to €7 a session.
Goa is a very popular and busy tourist destination, and mostly considered not to be the real India.
Having visited other parts of the country before heading to the state, Goa is a gentle taster of the often hectic and thoroughly colourful and intriguing subcontinent.
Women wear saris, everyone wobbles their heads in response to questions and Indian interpretations of the English language are a constant source of uplifting amusement.
This ‘madam’ is going home from Goa with a very good climate indeed and few more yoga moves to boot.
www.gohop.ie are an Irish company offering flights, accommodation and tours to Goa. Tel: 01-2412389.
No direct flights from Ireland to India. Fly to Mumbai and connecting flight to Goa (one hour).
Business class with Emirates airlines is a holiday in the sky with flat bed and fabulous food; www.emirates.com.
Budget-Mid: Huts and rooms from €5 — €50 per night.
Luxury: www.ohotelsindia.com.
Fabulous: www.theleela.com.
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