Clifden Bay charm
Abbeyglen Castle has been developed into one of Ireland’s great character hotels; below, an example of the superior room at the hotel.
to Gilbert, resident duty manager at the Abbeyglen Castle Hotel. With a bit of luck, he’ll say hello back.
Gilbert is a parrot, and as much a fixture of Clifden as Abbeyglen itself. Preening in his cage, he’s equipped with a small yet incisive vocabulary, and an uncanny knack for mobile ringtones. He’s also the first signal that a stay at this four-star hotel could quickly get quirky.
I love arriving at old hotels by night, and Abbeyglen Castle doesn’t disappoint. The turrets, the creeper snaking down the façade, the twinkling lights across Clifden Bay — all lend themselves to an air of anticipation, as does the complimentary champagne reception under way inside.
Gilbert isn’t the only celeb to have visited Clifden, of course. Though originally built in 1832 by John D’Arcy, Abbeyglen has long been associated with Paul and Brian Hughes, the father-and-son team who have developed it into one of Ireland’s great character hotels.
A little Hall of Fame behind reception is full of framed photos of their guests: Chelsea Clinton, Peter O’Toole, Billy Connolly, Richie McCaw, Woody Allen and Mia Farrow to name but a few.
For all Gilbert’s charms, I’m also thankful that the receptionist is a human being. Hailing from Brittany in France, she checks me in with a big smile, and walks me to my room.
I stay in No 73, a superior room on the second floor. It comes with a smashing view over the castle gardens, cascading down towards Clifden Harbour, and a brilliant bathroom — with double sinks, a walk-in shower and a standalone iron bath with lovely claw feet.
The room itself, however, doesn’t strike a chord. It’s a decent size, and sleeping in a four-poster is always a treat, but the lighting is badly co-ordinated (I have to fiddle with several combinations to get anything remotely resembling an atmosphere), and details like the ancient phone, old-fashioned TV and box of tissues from Lidl need a design rule run over them.
This strange incoherence isn’t just confined to the rooms. Driving through the gates, a laminated notice saying ‘Open’ is taped onto the hotel’s wooden signage. These may be temporary issues, and we’re all aware of the economic climate, but they do make an impression.
On the other hand, the Hughes’s hearts are clearly in it. Leafing through the guest directory in my room, I spot that Paul and Brian have personally signed the introductory letter.
The Abbeyglen’s restaurant has been awarded two AA rosettes, and specialities include Connemara lamb, lobster and lots of local seafood. Tuesday night is Irish night, with a menu written in Irish and featuring several traditional dishes served to Irish music.
Breakfast is served in the same room, a large, low-ceilinged space crammed with baronial chairs overlooking the gardens and helipads outside (“These things go in cycles,” Brian tells me. “Why get rid of them?”). I help myself to the buffet, the highlight of which is the succulent and meaty sausages from the tureens. Toast and coffee is brought to the table.
As guests gear up for the day, Brian hovers about, joshing, dispensing advice and showing people to their tables. He presents a little French flag to a group of Gallic visitors, and brings me a list of 37 different things to do in the area. “That’ll get you through the morning, anyway!”
The Abbeyglen’s Beauty and& Relaxation Centre offers a range of treatments and therapies, including a three-hour pamper package bundling a Yon Ka L Grand Classic facial, a Deluxe Jessica manicure, a Zen Spa pedicure and a Hot Stone back massage for €160pp.
The hotel also has a nine-hole pitch ‘n’ putt course, tennis courts and a snooker table. Wi-Fi is only reliably available in the foyer, however, an area with limited seating.
Can you carry a tune? If so, don’t miss the hotel’s legendary sing-songs. Arriving back from dinner in Clifden, I find the bar crammed, a lady calling the shots from behind a piano.
“Ah Liam’s there! Come on up Liam. Grab the guitar.”
It all goes off, with French, Dutch, Irish and American accents blending in a riotous rendition of ‘The Black Velvet Band’. The fire is lit, and the chairs are comfy. Bingo.
The Abbeyglen is a five minute walk from Clifden, which has recently been celebrating its 200th anniversary. See clifden200.org for more on its programme of events.
Whether you drive, walk or cycle, I’d recommend a trip around Connemara’s Sky Road, which sweeps right by the hotel. The ruins of Clifden Castle, Connemara ponies chomping on mulchy hills, upturned currachs by the shore, and stunning Atlantic views (you may even see dolphins) are all features of the outward journey, and coming back in towards Clifden, the 12 Bens unfold like a scene from a fantasy novel. It’s a super loop, best undertaken by bike.
Going to press, a Sunday and Monday night offer had two nights’ B&B with dinner from €179pp, plus 12.5% service charge. Contact 095-21201; or log onto abbeyglen.ie.
The Abbeyglen is one of Ireland’s best-loved family-run hotels, but despite Gilbert, despite the gregarious staff, and despite the gorgeous views, the hotel itself is aching for a refurb.
In places, it doesn’t feel like a characterful castle. It feels like a 1970s model of one.
Granted, an overhaul may be out of the question, but busy curtains and carpets feel not only out-dated and time-worn in places, they clash with the stately wooden fittings and antique pieces, adding a layer of confusion to an already higgledy-piggledy interior. A design recce to four-star peers like Ballynahinch Castle or Waterford Castle might be in order?
Of course, design is only on element of the hospitality mix. If it’s a sterling welcome, stunning views and a sing-song you’re after, then get thee to Gilbert’s booking engine.
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