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WHERE did it all go right for Kilkenny?

The city is one of Ireland’s most expensive for hotel rooms, turns into ‘Temple Bar’ on Saturday nights, and seems to mount a festival every other weekend. That’s not even starting on the number of visits ‘Liam McCarthy’ has made to Langton’s.

More populous counties like Meath, Kildare and Wexford must wonder how the Cats got hold of their pixie dust. But there are basic reasons for Kilkenny’s success. There’s the irresistible atmosphere of a modern city knitted into a medieval core. One minute you’re eating pan-fried hake with chorizo puree cooked by Maria Raftery, at Zuni, the next you’re stumbling upon Harry Clarke’s stained-glass windows in St Canice’s cathedral.