A strangely similar idyll
Nowadays, these images are less idyllic and more economic. However, while the financial woes exist, the crystal waters and whitewashed churches haven’t gone anywhere.
Greece as a holiday destination is still very much open for business as I found out on a recent trip to Crete.
The largest of the Greek islands, it’s one of Europe’s most popular sun holiday destinations. I travelled for a week, just before the high season, when temperatures were in the bearable mid-20s. My base for the week was Hersonissos, one of the biggest and liveliest resorts on the island, about 40 minutes along the northern coast from the airport in Heraklion. I stayed in the Grand Hotel Hersonissos, an elegant low-rise resort, on the edge of the main strip, with mesmerising views of the sea. This is a cleverly designed resort, with apartment blocks built around three different pool areas — the lively pool for those looking for entertainment, the quiet pool for those looking for relaxation and the family pool, perfect for young kids. But it’s the views of the sea when you open the shutters each morning that will get you out of bed, no matter how much ouzo you had the night before.
In Hersonissos, you will find everything expected of a busy tourist town — a long strip of shops and a beach front with every imaginable type of eatery, all vying for your custom. For those expecting long, sandy beaches, you may be disappointed; Hersonissos is small and pebbly. At night, however, the place comes alive with discos, Irish pubs and the buzz of people on holidays with not a care in the world. I was there just before the peak season and while it was busy, it was comfortable.
However, there is more to Crete than a sun holiday resort, so I decided to hire a car and explore the island. Car rentals are cheap on the island and you can rent pretty much anything, from a moped to a Hummer, from €12 a day.
It is only when you start to drive around the island that you appreciate just how big it actually is. I had imagined I would travel the entire island in a day or two, but in reality, I didn’t see much more than the northern coast. Driving here is quite the experience; mopeds weave in and out of traffic and overloaded trucks that haven’t passed an NCT in years pass on sheer facing cliffs. If you’re of a nervous disposition, stick to the main roads as they are good and well sign-posted.
Do not, and I can say this from experience, veer off the main road. I did in my quest to find the inland plateau of Katharo, and while I saw beautiful lush valleys of orchards and farmland, I spent most of my time trying to find a way down the mountain in the searing heat, with no water, no phone reception and a petrol gauge that was creeping dangerously towards empty.
Deciding to keep to the beaten track, I took a trip to Heraklion, capital of the island and well worth a visit for a taste of the hustle and bustle of a typical Greek city, the fourth biggest in the country. The journey from Hersonissos alone is worth taking, with stunning views of the sea, beautiful inlets and coves tempting you to stop. If, like me, you fancy some retail therapy other than the typical tourist trinkets, Heraklion has plenty of shops to satisfy the urge. However, in a battle of 30-degree midday sun, I lost my shopping prowess. It was a rookie mistake — go either early in the morning or later in the afternoon to take full advantage. Join the locals and opt to sit in the shade watching the world go by instead.
For an authentic Greek experience, take a bus or taxi the short trip up the hill from Hersonissos to three gems of Cretan villages — Hersonissos’s old town, Piskopiano and Koutouloufari. This is where the locals conduct their normal lives away from the madness below.
Olive trees line cobbled streets while old men sit in the shade playing backgammon. It is well worth spending an afternoon strolling around craft shops or stopping for a Mythos (local beer). As a treat on our last night, I booked a table at Gallini’s in Koutouloufari, popular with locals and tourists alike. It did not disappoint, going beyond my expectations of the food, the atmosphere, ceremony of the service and the people. Afterwards, we popped into a nearby bar where we met locals lamenting the state of the economy and the ineptitude of their politicians. We felt strangely at home.
While Crete offers everything you would expect from a sun holiday, you cannot escape history on the island that is birthplace to Zeus. One of the most popular tourist excursions is a boat trip from Aghios Nikolaos or Elounda to the small island of Spinalonga, known as the island of tears because of its sad past as a leper colony. The day trip costs about €50, but includes transfers, boat trip and barbecue. The palace of Knossos just outside Heraklion also offers the opportunity to explore the island’s Minoan past, with its mazes of magnificent buildings and royal palaces, decorated with frescoes depicting Minoan life.
For those who are looking for a bit more activity, the Samaria Gorge is a hiker’s dream. This 16km trek, mostly downhill and in an area of outstanding beauty, is not for the faint-hearted or unfit in the Greek summer sun.
So would I recommend Crete? There is no doubt that it is a beautiful island, if in places a little neglected, with unfinished resorts that resemble the ghost estates dotted around our own country. However, the hidden coves, inescapable views of the sea, green and lush valleys, rugged and mountainous inlands more than make up for this. And as you would expect from a popular sun holiday destination, you can have your pick of accommodation options, food, entertainment and activity. What’s not to recommend?
Thomas Cook Ireland operate weekly flights out of Cork and Dublin from May to September, departing on Fridays. When packing, beware that the airport in Crete is very strict on baggage as many of my co-travellers discovered on the way home, having to fork out €8 for every extra kg over the 20kg allowance.
There are a number of resorts on the island, ranging from quieter, more traditional towns such as Rethymnon and Aghios Nikolaos, to the hedonistic and lively resorts of Hersonissos and Malia. I stayed at the 4-star Grand Hotel in Hersonissos, from €649 per person based on two sharing, half-board. The hotel is also available on an all-inclusive basis, with meals, drinks and hotel facilities included, from €154 extra per week per person.
Crete knows how to entertain its tourists with more sights and excursions than you will able to fit into your stay. Here is a flavour of what you can do:
A boat trip to the island of Santorini with its giant lagoon surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides.
A jeep safari adventure that provides an opportunity to get off the beaten track to see unspoilt scenery and remote mountain villages.
My Big Fat Greek Night is not to be missed. Sample a Greek feast, plenty of wine, Cretan music and dancers in traditional dress.
To book, call the Thomas Cook team in Dublin on 01 5140316 or visit your nearest travel agent.
Hersonissos has all the typical tourist trinkets. For a more pleasant shopping experience, head to Aghios Nikolaos where you will find good quality gifts, food and clothes, with the added benefit of less crowds.
Your gourmet experience in Crete is not complete until you have had a ’gyros’ from any of the kebab takeaways along the street. At €3 each, you’ll be back for more before your holiday ends. Apart from that, the restaurant scene is as you would expect from a holiday resort, with every type of cuisine and accompanying pictures of the platters. Eating out is generally less expensive than in Ireland, with main courses ranging from €8-15.
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