Go with the flow in Laval
Not all of the family might recall it call it similarly or as fondly, considering they may have had to endure what might be termed my mini nervous breakdowns, as the chore of adapting to a long drive on the wrong side of the road inevitably took its toll.
It didn’t help that, for the most part, I was either off the cigarettes, pretending to be off them or really trying to get off the damned things.
When you’re trying to hide a sneaky habit from the family, then an eight or nine hour journey from port of arrival down to the Vendee or beyond (don’t take any notice of those optimistic souls in either Irish or Brittany Ferries who claim it can be done in five) can really test the nerves.
The good news is that I really haven’t had a smoke in five or more years, but then I haven’t been similarly tested either in that time; the kids are no longer kids, they’re all grown up and one even has kids herself.
In a sense, the lady representing Mayenne Tourism picked the perfect time to hit with an offer to look at the area all over again.
I had been looking at an option of attending an Ireland pre-World Cup rugby friendly further south in Bordeaux, another former happy place for me, so it tied in perfectly. The French rugby authorities didn’t quite get it right, though, and I was refused a seat for the game minutes before kick-off.
Having had to watch the game in a next-door pizza parlour, thanks to a hard neck and the intervention of key Irish Rugby Football Union personnel, I did make it to the post-match interviews.
I cynically scowled at, briefly accosted and raised one finger (he wasn’t worth the two) at the dogmatic official, who by then (happily) was at the receiving end of a verbal from the FFR President.
But that’s another story.....
A few days spent happily investigating another of undiscovered area of France put the smile back on my face. For the uninitiated, the department of Mayenne is within the jurisdiction of the Pays-de-la-Loire region and borders on Normandy and Brittany.
I read the publicity material, about how Mayenne is akin to an upended rectangle, a mix of Breton and Norman, with rolling green countryside.
Having endured the trauma of rejection from the FFR in Bordeaux, I needed a bit of R and R. I made it to Paris from where I was to travel to the town of Laval.
Just to get it straight, Laval is 150 miles from Paris, a couple of hours by train, but for anyone ever wishing to stall rather than pass through en-route from the big French ferry ports, then it’s an easy journey from the ferry ports — 115 miles from Cherbourg and 105 miles from Le Havre.
Laval would seem to be a near perfect stop off point for those heading on that eight or nine hour journey down the West coast of France.
The narrow streets of Laval’s old town perch over the Mayenne river. Half timbered bistros sidle up against 18th century town houses and there’s even a chateau standing guard on one bank.
I stayed in a really beautiful hotel, a 10 minute stroll from the centre of town.
There’s no need to drive anywhere within the town if you don’t want to, at least not in sunny August where the temperatures were hitting a very acceptable 25 daytime. It wasn’t appreciably cooler at night.
The town offers enough activity for tourists to spend a couple of days at least. It would suit those who want to combine historical culture and museums with outdoor activity. The River Mayenne was once used by barges carrying agricultural produce but its banks are now a haven for walkers, cyclists and horse riders.
There are plenty of museums and old churches, some of which would be regarded as a must-see.
The sense of history is everywhere, but I did, having looked around the town as much as possible, break for the border and came across — well I was pointed in the direction of — the Musee Robert Tatin at Cosse-le-Vivien which was a most interesting detour.
The 20th century artist was quite a character, by all accounts, and his interesting sculptures and other arts works — plus the house he lived in with a very young wife — are showcased in a landscaped park that has been capturing the imagination of adults and children for quite a while.
You won’t find much, if any nightlife in Laval.
The town opens early for business and closes early.
But this wasn’t about too much activity.
When relaxation comes hand in hand with visual beauty and a nice warm glow about the weather, well, it doesn’t get much better than that.
* Barry Coughlan travelled as a guest of Mayenne Tourism — www.tourism-mayenne.com — which offers a range of ideas for holidaying in the area.
By air. To Paris is best bet, although watch for seasonal flights to Rennes, La Rochelle or Lorient, in which case a Laval stop-over would tie in best with a trip to Paris or Euro Disney.
By sea. Irish Ferries and Celtic Link Ferries to Cherbourg. Laval would be a good stop-over point for those meandering south west. Passengers with Brittany Ferries to Roscoff could easily stop off, if the plan is to head east towards Paris.
The Perier du Bignon is situated just a 10 minute stroll from the centre of town, downhill. The 18th century Hotel Particulier has been beautifully restored and extended with a fine private garden and outdoor swimming pool. The main sites are in easy walking distance. The nearby Saturday market with lots of local producers is a real attraction. Rates from €100 per room (two persons) accommodation only.
The medieval Chateau de Laval (tower and building) as well as the old remains of the town walls and gate, plus the Cathedral of the Trinity. Out and about, check out the unique architectural style of old buildings, some of them leaning this way and that way, and stop off in any one of a number of side-street cafes that don’t appear to be remotely geared towards the tourist, just there to facilitate idle afternoon chat amongst the locals. This side of Laval is close to my idea of the real France.
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