Running out of road
No more open highways, one-horse towns, roadside motels and diners — the great road trip was over.
But it wasn’t all bad, as after the long, hot, eventful trip we had four languorous days to explore the tiny island of Key West, and a sojourn at its most exquisite resting place, the Southernmost House, to look forward to.
The Cork man and I had started our epic trip in New Orleans, Louisiana. From there we covered about 1,000 miles, and four states over 14 days.
So it wasn’t exactly Kerouac or Steinbeck, but looking out on the gulf of Mexico, just 90 miles from Cuba, it felt like a real achievement.
A vast continent without borders, the great American road trip is part of the nation’s popular culture, from Easy Rider to Thelma and Louise back to On the Road and the Grapes of Wrath, the experience is a must-do for any avid traveller.
There’s something refreshing, romantic and daring about getting up each day, not knowing where the road will take you or where you’ll end up that night. And it really can be as simple as setting off each day, going as far as you want, and then finding a place to put down roots for the night.
Sometimes it doesn’t really matter where you are staying, it’s about the people you meet along the way. And if you don’t like them or the place, just get in your car and drive.
New Orleans was our starting point and from the classy jazz on Frenchman street to the tackiness of Bourbon, the Big Easy did not disappoint. There was no sign of post-Katrina blues, but granted this opinion comes only through the lens of the tourist-orientated French Quarter.
A night deep in cajun country was quieter, but worthwhile. It is hicksville USA, industrial, hot and sticky with bayous to beat the band.
Leaving Louisiana we ploughed on through the southern parts of Mississippi and Alabama but, unfortunately, as time was against us, could not stop. There are plenty of options, though, for travellers with more time to spare. We headed straight for old world Florida, past the somewhat tacky city of Pensacola. Dubbed the forgotten coast, it really feels like that. Here it’s all rickety wooden piers, endless sandy beaches, oysters for lunch and dinner, beers at sunset, morning time fishing and afternoon gator-spotting. From Port St Joe to the beautifully quaint Apalachicola, right through to Carrabelle and the big bend scenic highway, there are vast forests at your back and endless beach to the fore. Bliss.
Next we headed for the city of St Petersburg, a scenic happening beach-side city on the Gulf coast. We stayed right on the beach, at the Alden resort, which has two pools, great views and self-catering suites. St Pete’s is a young person’s city and there’s always a party, so waking up with the beach at your toes is the perfect antidote for a hard night on the town.
Heading south all the time, the road took us deep into no-man’s land. Here we had two nights in a remote cabin with nothing but swarming insects and alligators for company. Everglades city feels like a million miles from anywhere. Local legend Bob Miller runs an empire, encompassing not only the cabins, but the local store, restaurant and watering hole. Leebo’s Rock Bottom Bar, not run by Miller but the charismatic “Leebo”, is where the locals hang out to cool down. Despite the signs suggesting otherwise, tourists are welcome.
After the sticky heat of the glades, cool breezy South Beach was badly needed. We stayed at an art deco hotel on Collins Avenue.
Dreams South Beach (see hotels.com for best deals) is archetypal Miami, its roof top pool overlooking SoBe, (as the cool kids call it), a must-see.
Lounge by day, party by night, that’s Miami’s motto and all you need to do.
And then it was time for the final leg of our trip, from Miami down the overseas highway to Key West.
If Route 66 is “the mother road” as named by Steinbeck, perhaps this section of US1 is its southern cousin.
The two-lane highway, built in the 1930s after a hurricane destroyed the railway line, takes you all the way to mile marker — and the southernmost tip of the continent. Key West is an attack on the senses and you’ll barely find time to sleep. All-day happy hours, an abundance of boat trips or water sports — the world’s third largest reef lies just off the “rock” — there’s just too much to do here. Respite can be found at the southernmost pool, which lies in the courtyard of the exquisite and quaint Southernmost House. Steeped in history, the house where several US presidents and author Ernest Hemingway, who lived around the corner, have been hosted, is now a boutique hotel — and the perfect place to rest a road-weary head.
British Airways flies London to Dallas with connections to New Orleans and many Florida destinations.
Return leg Miami to London with a connection to Ireland, circa €800.
* www.britishairways.com
Make sure you have a separate insurance policy if you want full cover.
We used award-winning excess car hire insurance policy provider www.insurance4carhire.co.uk
If taking a car a long distance and into a different state, look at changing it once you get to the state where you’ll spend the most time, otherwise you’ll face huge one-way fees.
Bring your own GPS or else you’ll be charged at least €10 per day for one.
* Try www.Avis.ie for reasonable rates
In Florida it’s all about getting out on the water. Snorkel or fish in the Keys. Take a boat trip to see alligators, bald eagles and dolphins in the Everglades, jet ski or paraglide at St Petersburg beach.
You can also enjoy the numerous and fabulous state parks, many with beaches dotted on the gulf coast. Check out www.floridastateparks.org for more.
New Orleans is world-famous for its food. Here you are spoilt for choice. Sample traditional cuisine and classic dishes, such as poboys, jambalaya and gumbo.
Florida is the one of the world’s biggest and best fishing regions. Apalachicola Bay produces 90% of Florida’ s oysters and 10% of the nationwide supply, so what better place to try them?
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