Waters and the wild
We were looking for somewhere child-friendly with outdoor pursuits, good food and would it be too much to ask to throw a nice massage in there as well? After a little online research, Renvyle House, situated on arguably one of the most stunning spots of the very wild west coast in Connemara, appeared to tick most of the boxes. We worked in an overnight stop in Galway to break up the trip from Cork and by the time we wound our way through the Inagh Valley, the scenery had worked its magic before we had set foot in the historic hotel. With each twist of the road revealing another picture postcard setting, we were smitten. Still lakes mirroring majestic heather hued mountains, brazen sheep loitering with castles in the background and when we finally did get to where the people were, white-washed thatched cottages with bright red doors greeted us in Tully Cross.
To get to Renvyle House, you drive up a tree-lined swoop of an avenue, past a sign for a strand on the left and a tantalising peek of a rose garden on the right. Ducks pluck at the grass as we unload the car. Set on 200 acres next to the Atlantic ocean and with it’s own private lake to boot, the hotel has no problem living up to its splendorous surroundings. We entered through a little porch strewn with fishing rods, golf buggies and an amiable labrador. The latch clicks open to reveal a warm lobby, with a bar to the right and a welcoming turf fire. This hotel exudes a friendly, relaxed air permeated by the turf heavy in the air. It follows us up the wide stairs and into our room. From the hotel you have views of the Twelve Bens mountains and Rusheenduff Lake. Fabulous.
In Black’s Guide to Ireland, written in 1912 it says: “Mrs Blake’s Hotel, Renvyle House (£3 per week), is most homely and comfortable, besides being unique; for its walls, within, retain their unique elm and oak wainscoting, and it lies snugly embowered as some old English ‘grange’.” That uniqueness has been maintained with particular attention paid to the bedroom furnishings, many of them made by local craftsmen, using solid Irish oak, in keeping with the design of the old house when it was rebuilt in the 1920s. We have a family suite, spacious, elegant and comfortable. There’s little touches that the make it feel homely — books on the shelf, tea and coffee, a newspaper on the table, a box of chocolates to greet us. For me, the highlight of the room was the glorious 4-poster bed. For the two-year old, an extra TV, with satellite channels, in his part of the room was enough to have him bouncing on the bed with excitement. Which we put a stop to immediately. Ahem. The bathroom is just gorgeous, with a huge bath which to our delight filled up with peaty water — great for the skin, an 80-year-old from Letterfrack tells me. She looks 25, so I take her word for it — and three baths.
There’s plenty to do around this area, weather permitting. There are some good local surf spots, like Ballyconneely strand. If you want to stay on dry land, The Diamond Mountain in the national park is a good climb which doesn’t require experience in hiking, there are carefully constructed paths all the way up and 360 degree panoramic views of the entire west of Ireland is your prize when you reach the top — the views are truly breathtaking on a clear day. If you want something less strenuous, there are gorgeous walks around Kylemore Abbey, including the walled gardens. The toddler loved feeding the ducks just outside the door at the hotel and then we took a boat for a jaunt on the lake. We also went collecting shells along White Strand, a long expanse of white sand with unrivalled views across the Atlantic. The offshore islands of Inishboffin, Inishturk and Clare island are also easy enough to get to for those who want to stray a little further.
There is a heated outdoor swimming pool that was in need of a bit of a update when we were there — and even a move indoors? For those in need of some pampering, Tanya runs the Simran Treatment Rooms at Renvyle House. I didn’t get time to sample these delights but heard good things about it. It’s located just off the Herb Garden on the grounds of the hotel. You book direct with Tanya at 095-41856. There’s an excellent children’s playroom there that we got great use out of and a really lovely conservatory out the back where you can chill out. Leisure facilities include a nine-hole golf course, lawn bowls, croquet, two all-weather tennis-courts, swimming, boating, fly-fishing, a privately owned trout haven, deep sea fishing, snooker, table tennis and clay pigeon shooting.
Award-winning Tim O’Sullivan has been the head chef at Renvyle House for over 20 years. He uses lots of local produce — Irish beef, Connemara lamb and game dishes feature alongside seafood dishes using the freshest of fish delivered daily. We had the most delicious dinner, starting with an appetiser of crab and lobster, followed by goats cheese in a biscuit base with balsamic vinegar and onion. Next was tomato and basil soup followed up with a perfect steak served with a trio of vegetables. Dessert was divine strawberry tartlet with Chantilly cream.
The wine list was extensive and Ronnie, the manager, helped us choose in between doing his rounds, chatting to every table, making sure everyone was alright. The ambience is relaxed, the staff superb, genuinely friendly and efficient service and all topped off by Count John McCormack’s concert Steinway. Breakfast was top class, with an extensive menu, very relaxed and child-friendly.
Renvyle House will be closed for mid-weeks in December until fully opening for Christmas and New Year. They have weddings and Christmas parties on the other weekends. Friday, December 23, is €65 DBB per person sharing; 2DBB €422 per person (December 24 and 25).
Family rates are available, call 094-46100, Email: info@renvyle.com, website: www.renvyle.com.
For the New Year, they offer DBB — €95.00 per person/ per night for December 27 – 30, with children under six going free.
There’s a daily kid’s club daily starting Dec 26 from 2 – 9pm, including treasure hunts, board games, a nightly movie, story-telling evening with Tegolins tales, drama workshop and a karokee evening. For the adults there are organised walks, family quiz nights, sing-a-longs and The Renvyle Play, performed by Tegolin Knowland.
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