The fight to survive

IN THE space of a decade, the number of B&Bs in this country has dropped from 4,500 to 1,850, according to B&B Ireland.

By any stretch of the imagination, that’s one hell of a cull.

An old cornerstone of Irish hospitality is fighting for its very survival.

An overnight stay at the exquisite Killiane Castle in Wexford, however, convinced me that Irish B&Bs are not only fighting, but worth fighting for. From the moment I hit the brass knocker on this 17th century farmhouse’s big yellow front door, I felt I was in for something special.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Down a leafy driveway three miles outside Wexford town, a stocky tower dating from 1470 comes into view. Surgically attached to it, beneath huge old cypress and willow trees, is a three-storey Georgian farmhouse, the meticulously-kept family home of Kathleen and Jack Mernagh.

Guests can’t actually stay in the castle, so you could quibble about the name. But stepping into the homestead, with its welcoming fires, sash windows, antique furniture, fresh flowers, baroque mirrors and classically-styled wallpapers, I really don’t think I’d want to.

Then there’s Kathleen. Within five minutes, she has offered an early breakfast, given two restaurant recommendations, and called to book one — despite being in the middle of her dinner.

THE ROOM

Killiane has eight bedrooms, though there are a couple of courtyard apartments. I stayed in a twin, with two single beds squeezed together in a small but comfortably-appointed space splashed with bluish prints and patterned curtains.

Outside, views stretched over the Mernaghs’ Wexford farmland, and warm duvets, fresh spring water on the landing and a decent-sized bathroom added to the impression. I wouldn’t call it luxurious, and the Wi-Fi connection is patchy, but it’s at the top end of Irish B&B accommodation.

THE AMENITIES

Irish B&Bs have been struggling to carve a new niche in this post-apocalyptic landscape, dominated as it is by zombie hotels. Service and comfort aside, Killiane Castle offers a farmhouse experience, with guests able to take a farm walk through a dappled old oak grove.

I was able to explore the castle too, a fusty old building whose stone steps bore me up onto a rooftop view of the countryside. There’s also a tennis court, toy tractor, a croquet lawn, and a barbecue in the old walled garden.

Inside, you can kick back by the fire in the drawing room, or stow away in the cubbyhole under the stairs, where you’ll find tea, coffee, homemade biscuits and board games.

WHAT TO DO

Killiane Castle lies just beyond the outskirts of Wexford, gearing up for its annual Opera Festival (wexfordopera.com) from October 21 to November 5. Even outside of festival season, however, this underrated town is worth a mosey — its meandering lanes can throw up some surprisingly good boutiques, restaurants and a great view from the Opera House’s Sky Café.

Nearby, the Blue Flag beach at Curracloe ties in nicely with a 10km looped walk around Raven Point, and there are daytrips at Johnstown Castle Estate (irishagrimuseum.ie) and the Irish National Heritage Park at Ferrycarrig (inhp.com). See visitwexford.ie for more.

THE FOOD

You can’t beat a good Irish farmhouse breakfast, and that’s exactly what’s on offer here. Kathleen cooks away to the strains of Lyric FM, and a sideboard overflows with local strawberries, cheddar, fresh fruit salad, a selection of seeds, stewed apples and rhubarb with orange and ginger.

I grab a bowl of rhubarb, which comes from the garden, and settle down at a table decorated with wildflowers. Kathleen delivers a plate of bacon and sausages from the farm, pours tea into my Royal Doulton crockery, and chats away. It’s old-school, country class. Yum.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Killiane Castle advertises rooms from €100 per night. Midweek in the off-season, however, three nights B&B can be had on special at €135pps. Contact 053 915-8885; killianecastle.com.

ANYTHING TO ADD

Kathleen first began taking guests in 1972, supplementing her family’s 230-acre dairy farm with a B&B that is restful without feeling stuffy.

It’s not an easy balance to strike, but the healthy line-up of Irish, UK and French-registered cars speaks volumes. Most of all, though, the success comes down to the gentle charm of Kathleen herself. Hotels will never be able to match her, one reason I hope B&Bs do not become extinct.