In the footsteps of St Patrick — hills, hikes and heroics
Tóchar Phádraig, County Mayo is a fully way-marked 35km route
It's the time of year when we extravagantly strut our stuff to remind all other nations of their ill luck at not being Irish. Yet, we understand little about the British-born evangelist behind the great international goodwill fest for Ireland. The cult of sainthood has obscured much about Patrick with most hard detail falling through the cracks of history.
Mythology compensates, however, with a wonderfully colourful narrative. Let’s follow, therefore, in the mystical footsteps of our national apostle as he creates charming stories on his missionary journey across Ireland.
This is the hill where Patrick is reputed to have first experienced a spiritual epiphany to become a believer in Christ. This scene-stealing summit is the focal point of a pilgrimage on March 17.
It's a short but enthralling 30-minute ascent offering haunting views over the northeast's Antrim Glens. Clearly, Patrick was fit for the going is quite steep, and careful scrambling is required to overcome obstacles near the top.
It is here, with heroic indifference to royal custom, Patrick first made his mark. Ascending the Hill of Slane, he lit a pascal flame in advance of King Laoghaire's Bealtaine fire at Tara. The very chutzpah of this act made an unexpectedly favourable impression on the king. The symbolism was clear: Christianity had triumphed over paganism and would soon conquer all of Ireland.
A 10-minute ramble takes you to the monastic site atop the hill offering expansive views over County Meath. One part of St Patrick's story will immediately ring true; you can clearly see Tara about 16km to the south.
Uphill again, this time to the highpoint of a limestone escarpment at Cashel, where resided Aenghus, King of Munster. Here Patrick carried off a considerable coup — baptising Aengus — while carelessly impaling the monarch’s foot with his crozier. This oversight would have landed most people in royal hot water, but not Patrick. Aengus didn’t complain, and instead became Ireland's first Christian monarch.
Afterwards, things got a bit political. South of Cashel, St Declan, held powerful sway over the Deise region. Cannily, Patrick emphasised his dominance by meeting Declan to appoint him Bishop of the Deise, but then wisely refrained from entering his territory.
Patrick ascended this from the east, but then, observing the watery expanse beyond, declined to go further. A strong pilgrim tradition was, however, created when he blessed Connemara from the pass, while conveniently keeping his sandals dry.
Maumean makes an enjoyable outing: a pleasant walk, with several reminders from the Christian past. There are all the usual signatures of pilgrimage: an oratory, an outdoor altar, a rocky cleft where St Patrick slept (uncomfortably, it would seem), and an offering adorned holy well. The main reward for your 1.5-hour ramble is, however, the sublime vista east and west.
The time has now come to lace up the boots, for things are getting tougher. Following an ancient royal road from Rathcroghan (seat of Connaught Kings) the Tóchar leads to Ireland’s holy mountain. Holding many resonances from its pagan origins, it was Christianised by Patrick as he journeyed to Croagh Patrick, where he took time out to banish serpents from Ireland.
Those possessing the required fitness will love this fully way-marked, 35km route. Near the end, however, the altitude rises to almost 500m on Croagh Patrick, so you may think it is best to complete the walk over two days. Registration costs €10 at Ballintubber Abbey; 094 9030934.
Patrick arrives here to discover a serpent in the lake that has ignored his exclusion order and continued terrorising locals. He deals with it, of course, but the dead monster’s blood stains the water creating Lough Derg — the red lake. Patrick then visits Station Island where, in a cave, he is shown a vision of purgatory.
Your easy 12 km pilgrimage follows medieval penitents — not to Station Island, the destination for modern-day pilgrimage — but Saints Island, where existed a medieval monastery. Far removed from modernity, you will enjoy this stroll for the many echoes from the pilgrim past. You also have the option of going for broke and returning to complete the immensely tough three-day Lough Derg Pilgrimage between June and August.
- John G O’Dwyer’s latest book titled is available nationwide and at currachbooks.com
- Other hikes and trails around the country are available here
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