Fire pits, pizza ovens and BBQs: Top recipes for outdoor cooking
Chef Mark Ahern with his daughter Jayda trying out Thai lemongrass bbq chicken at their home in Turners Cross, Cork. Picture Dan Linehan
There was something of the impatient mother about lockdown, sick of us mewling brats running underfoot, kicking us ‘outside to play’ and to embrace the great outdoors for the good of our mental and physical wellbeing.
The rest of the world was entirely closed off, most especially those lovely hot parts we assume are the preordained arenas for outdoor leisure and socialising activities. Instead, we had to learn to make the best of what we have on our doorstep, as it happens, one of the most beautiful countries in the world, even if an on-off switch for the rain would be very handy.
Forbidden from gathering indoors, we took our very best expression of communal socialising out into the gardens, parks and beaches, to sit down together, breaking bread, raising a glass, cooking under sunshine and stars. And neither was it just another bout of badly cooked burgers, warm beer and a trip to the burns unit. We upped our game, trying new ingredients, dishes and techniques, even new gizmos, in particular fire pits and the garden pizza oven.
It is a grave error to assume, because we can cook to whatever degree with machines powered by gas and electricity, that it must surely be a doddle to cook with fire — after all didn’t our far less sophisticated ancestors do it for millennia? However, cooking over fire and smoke is a specialised skill is a forgotten art to be relearned all over again but it is very well worth doing so. Remember, a gas BBQ may be more convenient and easier to clean, but the flavours simply aren’t a patch on food cooked over charcoal and wood.
Though Paul McVeigh’s head chef at Mr S, Ted Ostache, is highly experienced and classically trained, Ted admits coming to work in a restaurant where they only cook over live fire was, “an opportunity to learn to master a unique skillset, cooking over live fire. A cook knows how, a chef knows why. Live fire cooking raises many ‘why’ questions but when the answer is right, the food is nothing but delicious.” Well said, Ted!
“In Mr S, everything is cooked over live fire. It’s pared back cooking,” says Paul, “there’s no where to hide, source the best of Irish produce, treat it simply, cook it over fire and smoke. I could have given you a steak recipe but Irish fish is really wonderful. But fish can be delicate, it can flake and break apart and be a disaster, so we would cure or brine it, to firm it up and add seasoning and flavour right through the fish. And we always, always have grilled red peppers on our menu, cooked ‘dirty’, directly on the embers.”
- 1 litre water
- 10gms sea salt
- Herbs and slightly crushed spices (eg fresh dill, parsley, bay leaf; crushed fennel and coriander seeds) for extra flavour.
(Scale up recipe if required, depending on the amount of fish.)
Heat 20gm water, dissolve salt, add to remaining cold water, cool in fridge before using.
Submerge fish in brine in high-sided dish, for maximum 30 minutes. Remove, pat dry with paper towel. Reserve in fridge until 30 minutes before cooking.
- 150gm caster sugar (finer, easier to rub in)
- 100gm rock salt
- Zest of one each lemon, lime and orange (reserve juice for basting butter)
(Scale up recipe if required, depending on the amount of fish.)
Paul McVeigh's barbecued monkfish
The meaty texture of monkfish is ideal for the harsh heat of a barbecue, enjoyed with fresh herbs and squeeze of lemon for added flavour
Servings
4Cooking Time
12 minsTotal Time
12 minsCourse
MainCuisine
ItalianIngredients
4 monkfish tails
For the marinade:
zest of 1 lemon (reserve lemon juice for basting butter)
4 tbsp parsley, chopped
2 tbsp rosemary, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed or very finely chopped with tiny pinch of salt
5-6 tbsp neutral oil (sunflower, rapeseed)
For the basting butter:
150g butter, melted (can be melted in stainless steel bowl to the side of grill)
juice of lemons and other citrus fruit from rub and marinade
bunch thyme
bunch rosemary
Method
Mix the marinade ingredients together and marinate overnight in a ziplock bag, completely covering fish
Tie stalks to wooden spoon handle to create a ‘herb basting brush’. Mix melted butter and juice.
Clean hot grill with wire brush. Remove excess oil/marinade from fish using fingers as ‘squeegee’. Place fish on the grill and resist the temptation to move it for five minutes to allow the crust to form. Turn and sear opposite side for three minutes. Baste seared side with citric butter.
Sear remaining sides for approx. three minutes each, until all four sides are done, basting seared sides, 14-15 minutes in total. Use a probe, aim for optimum 55˚C, or slightly under to allow fish to reach 55˚C while resting before serving.
A classically trained chef-turned-pizzaiolo, Stuart Bowes produces what I regard to be some of the finest pizzas in Ireland, and furthermore, does it from a food truck using two Gozney Roccbox pizza ovens, little ovens designed for domestic outdoor baking, one of several types to be now found in many an Irish garden. Mind you, it’s not as simple as unbox, fire it up and, hey presto, perfect pizza. They take time to master but stick with it and they produce exquisite crispy, chewy and utterly delicious pizza in under two minutes. See Stuart’s Instagram (@thecurlystu) for great tips.
Good quality whole peeled plum tinned tomatoes, (eg San Marzano DOP, Mutti Polpa)
Crush with clean hands, adding one gram of salt per 100gms and olive oil.
Good fior di latte mozzarella (Macroom Buffalo mozzarella is good), tear off rough chunks, scatter over pizza. Grate Grano Padano over pizza, either before it goes in or after it comes out of the oven.
Very important to remember, less is more, especially so pizza doesn’t become too heavy going into oven and sticks to the peel.
Ardsallagh Goat’s Cheese, West Cork Garlic Scape, Roasted Red Piquillo Peppers
Pepperoni
Salsiccia Friarelli - Irish style: Cooked sausage meat, cooled, broken up. Shredded greent turnip tops, kale tips or kale.
Stuart Bowe's pizza dough
Stuart's pizza dough benefits from a slow rise and believe me, it's worth the wait
Servings
6Preparation Time
12 hours 0 minsTotal Time
12 hours 0 minsCourse
MainCuisine
ItalianIngredients
For the dough:
1kg type 00 flour
30g sea salt
600ml warm water
7g pack dry yeast or 15g fresh yeast
Method
Bloom yeast in warm water, add 100g flour, mix into batter. Gradually mix remaining flour until all ingredients are incorporated. Cover and set aside for 10 minutes.
Add salt and mix until dough is well kneaded. Cover, leave for 10 minutes.
Turn dough onto lightly floured table, cup hands behind dough and pull it towards you to form nice smooth ball. Leave for at least ten minutes or up to an hour, then divide into 6 x 250g balls.
Roll balls until smooth and place into edged container. Cover, leave to prove at room temperature until 50% risen then refrigerate overnight. Remove from fridge one hour before baking.
Mark lived in Asia for almost a decade, where he met and married his wife, Ae, a Thai woman whose family are Jasmine rice farmers from Laos and Cambodia.
“In Chiang Mai, where Ae is from, charcoal grilling is huge,” says Mark, “from oil drums cut in half to sophisticated grills but it’s mostly done on the hoof, rough grills, each trader doing a single dish: jungle chicken; sticky rice; Chiang Mai sausage; and so on. Everyone eats at these simple stalls, from the very poorest to bodyguards bringing food back to the car for billionaire owners. There are guys who go around with always lit grills on the back of motorbikes, beeping their horns, cooking your Chiang Mai sausage and then driving off again, BBQ still lighting, like a carnivorous version of Mr Whippy!"
Mark Ahern’s Thai chicken with turmeric rice salad and cucumber relish
This gently spiced, lemongrass chicken with relish and spiced rice salad is a delicious supper filled with vibrant flavour
Servings
6Cooking Time
50 minsTotal Time
50 minsCourse
MainCuisine
IndianIngredients
12 large boneless chicken thighs, skin off, cubed 2cm
6 lemongrass stalks for skewer
4 tbsp coconut cream
For the marinade:
4 Kaffir Lime Leaves, stem removed and finely sliced
1 tbsp grated galangal (or ginger)
1 tsp coriander root, chopped
4 garlic cloves
1 tsp white pepper
1 tsp coriander seed
1 tsp sea salt
1 tbsp shaved palm sugar (or brown sugar)
2 tbsp nam pla
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 bunch coriander, leaves and stems chopped
For the cucumber relish:
1 cucumber, quartered into wedges then sliced
1 shallot, sliced
1 red chilli, sliced
4 tbsp white vinegar
4 tbsp white sugar
½ tsp sea salt
1 tbsp grated ginger
For the turmeric rice salad:
6 cups cooked and cooled jasmine rice
1 tsp grated turmeric root (or turmeric powder)
2 limes, juiced and zested
2 tbsp fish sauce
½ bunch coriander chopped
½ bunch mint chopped
½ bunch basil chopped
1 bunch scallions
1 cup chopped peanuts
Method
In pestle and mortar, pound garlic, galangal(or ginger) coriander root, white pepper, coriander seed and salt to paste. Combine with sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce, coriander leaf and stems, kaffir leaf. Massage into chicken, cover, leave overnight in fridge.
To make the cucumber relish, simmer the vinegar with sugar, salt and a few tablespoons of water and stir in the cucumber, shallots, ginger and chilli. Leave to cool.
Now, make the rice. In mixing bowl combine turmeric, Lime juice, zest, fish sauce, leave for 5 minutes.
Stir in rice until turmeric turns rice yellow, stir in herbs and peanuts. (Raw sprouting broccoli, green beans or Seasonal Greens can be added for crunch.)
Split lemongrass stalks lengthways with small sharp knife to make 12 skewers. Soak in water 30 minutes before skewering chicken. Carefully skewer marinaded chicken through each lemongrass skewer and leave at room temp for 30 minutes.
When the embers are glowing, almost dying, gently grill the skewers, turning often to promote even caramelisation and cooking. Dab with coconut cream as they grill, to make coals smoulder and impart a smoky taste. Test with probe, it is cooked at 75°C.
“I’d have strong feelings about people who spend days prepping a weekend feast and don’t put the same amount of effort into their drinks. A few extra minutes and you can crank out something really nice, to give you the kind of drinks your lovely food deserves.
“You can prepare cocktail batches in advance so you only need to add ice and a slice to the glass to serve up. Have glasses, ice and sliced fruit to hand. You can even add the batch to a large ice-filled jug and leave the guests serve themselves.
“For a real garden party hack, the Elderflower Collins mix can sit in your fridge for weeks on end, preserved by the alcohol. The Caskmates Shandy recipe is great if you need to crank out a lightning fast refill batch for extra thirsty guests.”
(makes 18 serves)
- 1 x 700 ml Irish Gin
- 100 ml Elderflower cordial
- 100 ml fresh lemon
Pour the gin, cordial and juice into a clean 1 litre bottle or sealable jug. Close it up and give it a good shake. Store in your fridge for up to 1 month. For each serve, pour 50 into an iced glass with a slice of lemon and top up with sparkling water.
The first time I tasted a ‘classic’ s'more (a contraction of s’more, as in, ‘give me some more’), Graham crackers (cousin to digestive biscuits) sandwiching fire-toasted melting marshmallows and chocolate, I was surrounded by giant sequoia trees in Yosemite Park, in the Californian hinterland of San Francisco, as the Americans in our posse introduced us to their childhood campfire staple.
It was a glorious summer’s night of finest fire-cooked food, of wine and music, in the company of lovely people, in an awe-inspiring location, but the sickly sweet concoction left us non-Americans nonplussed. It later dawned on me: though the principles of sinfully over-sugared taste and textural variety were sound, it was let down by the quality of primary ingredients, so using finest Irish ingredients, I’ve created a superior alternative I’m dubbing The NíosMó (Irish for ‘more’).
It features crunchy Kilbeggan Oat Cookies made with organic Irish oats by the excellent West Cork Biscuit Co; Linda McClean’s sensational Mallow Mia marshmallows, pillowy soft and toothsome, billowing clouds of flavour that, when melted, achieve a divine and sticky gooiness. Handmade in small batches in Co Donegal, flavours include chocolate, pink gin & lemon, Nutella swirl and toasted coconut but the NíosMó works best with either Madagascan Vanilla or salted caramel.
The US version features Hershey bars which don’t even qualify as ‘chocolate’ in Europe, so I opt for wonderful fruity dark chocolate flavours of Wilkie’s Tumbes 64% as created by Ireland’s original bean to bar chocolatier, Shana Wilkie.
The NíosMó - ultimate Irish s'more
Using finest Irish ingredients, I’ve created a superior alternative to the s'more that I’m dubbing The NíosMó - Irish for ‘more’
Servings
1Preparation Time
5 minsCooking Time
5 minsTotal Time
10 minsCourse
DessertIngredients
2 Kilbeggan Irish Oat Cookies
1 MallowMia Marshmallows
2 squares Wilkie's Tumbes 64% Organic Dark Chocolate
Method
Impale marshmallow on wooden skewer (pre-soaked in water).
Lay two squares of chocolate on top of cookie, place cookie on double-folded tin foil to edge of BBQ/Grill to begin melting chocolate.
Meanwhile, toast marshmallow, rotating constantly to avoid burning, when browning, gooey, melting remove and place on top of the chocolate-covered cookie and, without burning the mouth off yourself, ascend to heaven.
• Buy a temperature probe, it is invaluable! Rare meat and fish is 50-55˚C; medium-rare, 55-60˚C; medium, if you really must, is 60-65˚C; anything after that is a waste of good meat but 70˚C should be your absolute cut-off point!
• Write out a meal plan and do as much prep in advance as possible. One ‘protein’ dish cooked from scratch is sufficient on the day; pre-cook (braise or roast) another ‘protein’ dish, such as chicken or beef short ribs, and all required on the day is to reheat on the grill, gaining a delicious smokey char in the process. The day before, steam new potatoes, wrap them loosely in foil packet to be reheated/smoked on one side of the grill and served with butter or olive oil, creme fraiche, herbs. Brining and marinading bring the real flavour magic so brine fish and marinade meats the day before, so they simply have to be dropped on the hot grill.
• Prepare simple salads: juicy, beefsteak tomatoes, sliced and dressed with nothing more than finest olive oil, sea salt and basil; Crisp, green leaves, cucumber, thinly sliced salted onion; homemade coleslaw. Pop open some jars of pickles and chutneys and slice a loaf of crunchy real sourdough bread (in other words, not from the supermarket!)
• Before guests arrive, lay out all the plates, cutlery, napkins, glasses as well as tools, utensils, oils and seasoning required for cooking and fire up your grill or fire pit (70% charcoal, for cooking; 30% wood, for smokey flavour). The best time to clean the grill rack with a wire brush is when it is nice and hot, just before you are about to cook. Don’t even think of cooking if you can still see flames; that begins when the flames have died and the embers are white. Don’t worry, your precious probe will be your guide—you did buy your probe didn’t you?
