The Skin Nerd: Skincare myths to be clued up on

Don’t let the following beauty mistruths stop you on your path to skin contentment

The Skin Nerd: "I recommend double cleansing twice a day, which means even if there is no makeup or SPF to remove." Pic: iStock

Myth: Hydration isn’t necessary for oily skin 

Some people confuse water and oil. Ultimately, if your skin is oily, this means that you are secreting more oil onto the surface of the skin than dry skin types. Despite this, the reality is that oily skin still requires hydration. 

This could come in many forms such as a humectant like hyaluronic acid, an emollient, or ceramides — just make sure that it is a non-comedogenic formula — which means that it doesn’t clog the pores. 

Even if the skin is overproducing oil, hydrating the skin is still essential for optimal skin health, so look for a lightweight gel moisturiser or serum to keep your moisture levels sufficiently balanced. 

I rate Bahama Skin Hyaluronic Moisturising Gel (€12.95, bahamaofficial.com) which contains four types of hyaluronic acid along with aloe vera to hydrate, soothe and refresh.

Myth: Sheet masks are the answer to all your skin concerns 

As a short-term boost, sheet masks can be a soothing, cooling treat for skin but when it comes to powerful results, they often don’t pack a long-term punch in the skincare department. 

Sheet masks are often soaked in anti-ageing, hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or an exfoliating acid like glycolic acid but if you want to see results long-term, you’re better off opting for targeted serum instead.

Myth: You cannot use niacinamide and vitamin C together 

Many people are reluctant to mix vitamin C and niacinamide because it can result in nicotinic acid, which causes redness and itching in the skin, however, this is only thought to be true for pure ascorbic acid (aka vitamin C) and niacinamide that are kept at high temperatures. 

This means that it should not be a problem with modern formulations, which is great as both bring massive benefits to the skin - niacinamide helps to produce ceramides to boost hydration and skin barrier function, while vitamin C is essential for collagen synthesis – making the pair a dreamy skincare duo in my opinion!

Myth: Double cleansing is only necessary if you've worn makeup or SPF 

I recommend double cleansing twice a day, which means even if there is no makeup or SPF to remove. Your evening double cleanse may seem more justified, working to remove any makeup, pollution, SPF and sebum but a double cleanse first thing in the morning will also be beneficial in removing the dead skin cells, sebum and dust that has accumulated on your skin overnight. 

A simple “splash and dash” won’t cut it any time of the day when it comes to effective cleansing. By ‘splash and dash’ I mean, leaning over the sink and sloshing water onto our skin as quickly as possible, which not only leaves a mess and soggy sleeves but is unlikely to make for an effective cleanse.

Myth: Sensitive skin should avoid vitamin A 

Anyone with sensitive skin should proceed with caution when it comes to vitamin A, but that does not mean that you cannot use it! 

Vitamin A is a powerful active ingredient and misuse can result in irritation or a flare-up, especially for those with reactive skin. 

Always follow instructions closely and give your skin enough time to adjust and build up tolerance. 

I suggest slowly introducing your skin to a gentle form of vitamin A, such as retinyl palmitate, which is the fatty form of the active ingredient and has to be converted into vitamin A by the body.

Myth: A dedicated eye cream is non-negotiable 

Regular readers of this column won’t need to be reminded that I am not convinced that eye creams are an absolute skincare essential, however, that does not mean that I leave my peepers bare or forgo hydration in this area. 

What I like to do is bring my serums around the under eyes, eyelids and brow bone. Serums are lightweight, they won’t disrupt makeup or SPF that will sit on top but are also more likely to be packed with potent active ingredients to perk-up the eye area and offer multiple benefits. 

I suggest looking for serums with hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump, peptides to address any fine lines and vitamin C to provide vital antioxidant protection.

Myth: Natural ingredients are more beneficial for the skin 

In my opinion, natural ingredients are the substances that are natural to us, such as minerals, vitamin A, essential fatty acids and peptides. 

Although a lot of natural ingredients are beneficial to skin, the concept of natural beauty neglects the need for base ingredients in a formulation which are necessary for stability, texture enhancing and preservation. 

Without the use of these synthetic ingredients the integrity of a formulation would be compromised. 

This means that it’s essential that you get your dose of natural ingredients within a stabilised formulation with all the necessary ingredients.

Myth: Pores can be ‘opened’ by warm water 

The concept of pores opening and closing sounds like a door – but your skin is not. Our pores (also known as hair follicles) are tiny openings in our skin and cannot be 'opened' or 'tightened' by things like cold water, warm water or facial steaming. 

In fact, the only time I would say that warm water or steam can aid in skincare is during a professional extraction, whereby the heat can help to soften the plug of sebum and dead skin cells that’s blocked the pores.