The Skin Nerd: Is THIS why you aren’t protecting your skin properly?
Skin Nerd: Sunscreen comes with misconceptions, but is vitally important
If I had a euro for every time a person questioned the importance of daily sunscreen, I cannot pretend that I wouldn’t be waking up in a far more tropical environment this morning.
It’s a question that’s asked across the groups that I interact with as a skincare expert. Sunscreen doesn’t discriminate in its bamboozlement - consumers, the press, colleagues and loved ones seek the same answers until I am reduced to an acronym-preaching, broad-spectrum-pushing sunscreen worshipper – but alas, all in the name of skin health.
Another question many ask me is what the key to good skin and my answer is the same – daily application of sunscreen. No matter the day, no matter the season. Whilst we sunscreen worshippers can relay this information relentlessly; upkeep is still slow when it comes to the daily application (and reapplication).
When the benefits are etched in clear-as-day logic, it can be puzzling to see so many people still forgo this daily task. So, this week I made it my mission to look a little deeper at the foggier areas of sun protection to clear up some of the most common SPF misconceptions and stumbling blocks, so you too can apply your skin saviour with ease.
This is the biggest misconception. Many mistakenly assume that SPF is only needed when the sun is shining, however, we must protect our skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays for 365 days of the year.
UV rays can penetrate through the clouds and 50% of UVA rays can even seep through glass, meaning you are still at risk of sun damage when working from home or when the weather is overcast.*
Exposing your skin to UV rays without adequate sun protection can accelerate premature skin ageing, which can lead to the formation of wrinkles, breakdown of collagen, dullness and dark spots. Of course, even more importantly, in some cases, UV rays can also cause skin cancer.
According to Mintel Suncare Report 2022, 61% of users cite difficulty in recognising the difference between a chemical and mineral suncare product, indicating the need for greater purchasing support. Picking a sunscreen that you love to apply as consistent application is key. Chemical sunscreens operate like a sponge, preventing damage by absorbing harmful UV rays.
Avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene and octinoxate are common ingredients found in chemical sunscreens. As well as offering higher UVA protection, chemical SPFs are known to be lighter in texture, making them easier to rub into the skin than many physical types. As they benefit from a clear application, they are more likely to suit a variety of skin tones. Downsides of this type of sunscreen include the increased potential to cause irritation and allergic reactions in sensitive skin.
Mineral sunscreens include zinc oxide, titanium oxide and calamine. These filters work by absorbing and reflecting UV rays away from the skin. Mineral sunscreens often have a heavier texture (that can leave a white cast on the skin) but can also tend to reduce the likelihood of allergic reactions, making them ideal for sensitive skin. Deemed ‘reef friendly’ in comparison to chemical formulas, many physical sunscreen filters are ideal for daily and prolonged sun exposure because of their broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
Whatever your top priorities are when it comes to choosing an SPF for you, make sure yours has a high factor and is broad spectrum.
The Irish Cancer Society recommends using a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF30, but for maximum skinsurance, I advise sticking to SPF50, which provides the maximum amount of protection per application.
Choosing a broad spectrum one is also important. This means the sunscreen protects you from the damaging effects of UVA and UVB rays, both of which threaten your skin health.
Research shows that an SPF 30 sunscreen will protect your skin from 97% of the sun’s UVB rays, while an SPF 50 sunscreen will shield your skin from 98% of UVB rays.
That might seem like a really small difference, but the added 1% of protection an SPF 50 product provides over a prolonged period can make a significant impact on the health of your skin.
According to British Beauty Council, 67% of British people don’t use enough sun cream, with 44% using less than half of the recommended amount.
Regardless of your skin tone or type, it is essential that everyone applies an adequate amount of SPF to protect their skin.
It’s true that dark skin will have a little more protection against harmful rays from the sun compared to light skin – but all skin tones can burn if their skin isn’t protected.
The amount of SPF that you apply should remain the same throughout the year. While the UV index drops lower in Winter, we always recommend that you apply your SPF in the morning and top it up every 2 hours throughout the day.
The Irish Cancer Society recommends that the average adult should apply 35ml of sunscreen to their entire body.
Reapplication is key to optimal protection and so finding a formula and format that works alongside your lifestyle is important.
Skingredients Skin Shield Moisturising and Priming SPF50 PA+++ is one of my all-time favourite sunscreens and is adored by makeup artists for providing your skin with all that it needs in a daily sunscreen and giving an amazingly radiant base for any makeup you may wish to apply afterwards.
A product can have sunscreen ingredients in it, but it doesn’t make it an actual sunscreen.
Foundation and other forms of makeup containing SPF can be beneficial as an added extra but should be not used in place of a sunscreen.
The reason? It would take HEAPS of foundation/makeup to accumulate the recommended daily amount of SPF (a shot glass full in fact) which is way more foundation than we imagine you would want to wear.
If you have blemish-prone skin, you would be forgiven for worrying about clogging up your pores by adding an additional product to your daily routine BUT fear not – many of today’s innovative formulas combine protection with skin-friendly properties to avoid clogging the pores.
To minimise the chances of a breakout, always make sure that you are using an SPF specially designed to be used on the face, as these will be lighter in texture and more easily absorbed than those for use on the body.
Next, avoid sunscreens containing emollients or ‘heavy’ ingredients such as shea butter, coconut and wheat germ oil, which can clog the pores and activate sebum production - making your skin oilier.
Look out for phrases such as matte or mattifying on the labels of any sunscreens you choose and select an SPF that is non-comedogenic (meaning it does not clog the pores.)
To maintain the efficacy of your sunscreen, keep an eye on its use-by date, store it below 30°C and keep it out of direct sunlight.
The shelf life for sunscreens is usually about 30 months, but this is dependent on the quality of the formula.
You should also refer to the ‘period after opening’ (PAO) symbol on the labelling. The PAO symbol is a small picture of an opened jar with a number printed within it – this number shows the number of months the product can be used for after it has been opened.
Zinc oxide is a highly sought-after, active ingredient found in mineral sunscreens. It is also a potent antioxidant that provides protection from other external skin enemies such as pollution.
Helping to soothe sensitive or reactive skin, it is often included in healing products thanks to its non-allergenic, anti-inflammatory properties.
As it’s non-comedogenic, it won’t block the pores, making it a go-to for those with acne-prone or congested skin.
It’s also a sustainable choice: Zinc Oxide has been declared ‘reef-friendly,’ and is an environmentally friendly alternative to chemical sunscreens.
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