Mastering the midriff: Top tips for welcoming back the Y2K trend

Post-pandemic predictions of ‘revenge dressing’ have finally come to pass as this summer is all about flashing abs and putting a bit of skin on show, writes Annmarie O’Connor

Sat, 09 Jul, 2022 - 12:22

Annmarie O’Connor

It was bound to happen. Overdue predictions of post-pandemic ‘revenge dressing’ have finally come to pass, only instead of pointless fairy tale frippery, fashion forecasters have promised a more intimidating trend – the bare midriff. Call it a skimpy reaction to restrictions or a nostalgic nod to Y2K but after two years of self-isolating in oversized tracksuits, the solar plexus is having a moment.

A model walks the runway during the Valentino Womenswear Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 01, 2021 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)

Not that this is anything new, of course. The tummy got its first airing in 1932, thanks to French couturier Madeleine Vionnet whose silk and glass bias cut evening dress featured an exposed midsection. A prescient symbol of women’s liberation, the waistline found further expression in bandeau and halter tops during the sexual revolution of the 60s and 70s counterculture. Hot on its heels, MTV gave us a reason to slash our t-shirt hems in the 80s thanks to artists like Madonna and Bananarama until...

Model Candice Huffine walks the runway for the Christian Siriano SS2022 Fashion Show at Gotham Hall on September 07, 2021 in New York City (Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images for Christian Siriano)

Yes, indeed: the ‘Kaybug’ years. A curious thing happened in the 90s and early 00s. Pop music ingenues like Britney Spears, Shakira and Christina Aguilera upped the ante a few inches, pairing ‘baby’ tees with hip-slung jeans and shrunken cardigans with micro-mini skirts. Let’s not forget those ill-advised navel piercings.

And so, the torso wars began, as did an era of ab crunches and toxic body culture. Fast forward to the TikTok generation and those who lived it the first time are asking the same question. Is it ‘hit me baby one more time’ or do we sit this one out?

A model walks the runway in a look from Stella McCartney's spring summer 2022 collection

It all depends on one’s risk appetite. The spring-summer 2022 runways ran the gamut from deliberately performative to more inclusive styles. Versace’s menu ranged from oblique-flashing cutaways on jackets and dresses to handkerchiefs and crop tops in various degrees of undress. Miu Miu’s slashed cable knit jumpers and skirts cosplaying as belts made for a jaw-dropping skin parade, as did Missoni’s decorative boob tubes styled with trailing side panels and low-rise pooling jeans. Christian Siriano, on the other hand, celebrated size-inclusive torso-teasing dresses from blush-inducing slashed fabric, while Stella McCartney showcased sophisticated peek-a-boo tops beneath colourfully tailored suits.

Miu Miu cropped knit, mini skirt, Brown Thomas

Although not an extreme sport, executing the midriff demands a certain level of skill to ensure a successful result. It all starts with a willingness to play with proportions. Trust me. Torso length and bust width can take a crop top into risqué bralette territory in a hot minute. Before committing to any new abbreviated style, experiment with what’s already in your wardrobe. Take an oversized white shirt. Unbutton it either above or below the navel, before tying a knot. Get a sense, based on your height and shape, where the knot sits best. Pro-user tip: Tuck the ends so they are not seen and roll the knot towards the midsection to create a chic fabric chignon at the navel. Then again, you can skip the heavy lifting and take a nose online at Massimo Dutti Studio (formerly Uterqüe), whose reimagined button-down (€79.95) allows for crossover draping and an instant flash of flesh. The result? Polished Katherine Hepburn vibes when teamed with wide-leg trousers and summer flats.

Undecided about how much is too much? Avoid the rose-tinted lens of nostalgia and take a low-key approach with strategically placed peepholes and cutaways. High street heroes, & Other Stories and Mango, win big here with their selection of long sleeve midi-length frocks (€49.99-€79).

Ditto for Jonathan Simkhai whose experimental Alex shirt dress (€420) gives a grown-up glimpse of the waist. Plus, the adjustable back ties allow for a base layer underneath.

Jonathan Simkhai 'Alex' cotton-blend poplin shirt dress, My Theresa

Warning: we are now entering treacherous bralette territory. This especially applies to fans of the contentious ‘bra-digan’: the 2019 moniker coined when actor Katie Holmes stepped out in a coordinating cashmere bra and cardigan. Replicas did the rounds on the high street from River Island and Zara while legions of cool girls like model Hailey Bieber dished up street style iterations with cargo pants and baseball caps.

If you like the idea of one but can’t stomach showing too much skin, look to high-waisted partners like jeans, skirts or trousers and cover extra surface area with a wide belt. Better yet, opt for a more modest crop top and draw the eye vertically with summer-ready sets like Self-Portrait’s mix-and-match broderie separates. Balance a white broderie bra top (€250) with a fit-and-flare midi skirt (€325) and layer with a prim broderie shirt (€290) for extra coverage. Consider this an any-occasion outfit, provided you’re not a wedding guest.

Mixed broderie top, â¬290 and matching skirt â¬325, Self-Portrait

For a more inclusive take on the trend, sustainable and ethical brand Loud Bodies makes good on its ‘real style has no size’ mantra in sizes from XXS to 10XL. Made from organic cotton, the whimsical Flora crop top (€85) boasts long sleeves and an adjustable chest ruching while its matching skirt (from €180), made from nearly 7m of ethereal cloud print fabric, evokes a dreamy Renaissance silhouette.

'Flora' organic cotton top and matching skirt, Loud Bodies

Likewise, New York designer Mara Hoffman makes elegantly waisted sets using ethically sourced and recycled natural or organic fibres in sizes XXS to 3X. Her stretchy black Kiyoko crop top (€320) and Tavi skirt (€320), loved for their smocked popcorn texture and figure-flattering lines, combine comfort with confidence for day-to-night ease worn together or with relaxed wardrobe staples like jeans or culottes.

'Kiyoko' top, and 'Tavi' skirt, Mara Hoffman

If this all sounds too much like hard work, walk the path of least resistance and layer an oversized blazer over a cropped t-shirt, served with sweatpants and Birkenstocks. Should the fear of God take over, you’re only a button away from ‘what was I thinking?’

Remember, though: have fun with it. It’s only fashion. The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse are not going to smite you for indecent exposure. Fire and brimstone are an Armageddon-only affair. Besides, the sulphur smell is a nightmare to get out in the wash.

STOCKISTS

& Other Stories – www.stories.com

Brown Thomas – www.brownthomas.com

Jonathan Simkhai – www.mytheresa.com

Loud Bodies – www.loudbodies.com

Mango – www.mango.com

Mara Hoffman – www.marahoffman.com

Massimo Dutti Studio – www.massimodutti.com.

Self-Portrait – www.selfportrait.com

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