What are the best moisturisers to protect your skin in cold weather?

Do you need occlusives, humectants, ceramides, or emollients — here's a handy guide to what each does

Prevent transepidermal water loss with these splendid moisturisers. Picture: Soak Sunday.

Ever wondered why skin looks duller when you wake, even when you’ve slept soundly on silk bedding?

Skin produces less natural oil when we sleep, but the chief culprit is transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the passing of water from the dermis through the epidermis, where it evaporates from the skin's surface. This drying process happens at night all year round and in daytime when temperatures drop. The night-time moisture loss occurs because of increased cellular activity. This happens even when you don’t sleep (though sleep is essential for good repair), as skin has its own circadian rhythm that registers when night falls.

Wintertime can also be tough on skin’s moisture reserve with the cold weakening its best defence against TEWL: the natural moisture barrier. Winds can cause chapping and taking very hot baths in the evening can strip skin of its natural lipids, both of which further weaken this barrier. Drier skin is less able to replenish itself and can look red and feel sore. Even oily and spot-prone skin can benefit from protection against TEWL, as binding water to the skin can improve inflamed acne, as well as the peeling caused by remedies like benzoyl peroxide.

The items listed here are all moisturising ingredients that can help protect any skin type from TEWL, though one group is more important than the rest.

Occlusives

You probably have the best ingredient for preventing TEWL in your bathroom cupboard. Petrolatum: the key ingredient in Vaseline and Eucerin’s balms, is part of a family of moisturisers called occlusives. They work by trapping water on the skin’s surface and are instantly effective. The best time to apply them is straight after showering, or any time the skin is still damp. Lanolin, mineral oil, paraffin, and squalene are other popular examples. Eucerin Aquaphor Body Ointment Spray, €14.25 at selected pharmacies, is a convenient way to apply paraffin. Occlusives are usually greasy. You may wonder what oily or acne-prone skin can use instead. Silicone derivatives such as dimethicone are occlusives that — when not combined with oilier substances — are not greasy. In my opinion, silicones have been unfairly demonised with misinformation about toxicity and pore-clogging in recent years. Silicones are a safe, breathable way to smooth the skin and prevent moisture loss without making oily skin greasier. La Roche-Posay Effaclar H Moisturiser, from €13.51 at pharmacies nationwide, is a dimethicone-rich, soothing moisturiser for oily types.

Humectants

CosRX Ultimate Moisturising Honey Overnight Mask, €27 at boots.ie

Humectants attract moisture from the air and bind it to the skin’s surface. It is best to choose a product that combines them with occlusives, to ensure the moisture is trapped. Hyaluronic acid gets a lot of hype, but there are many wonderful humectants. Glycerin is widely used in moisturisers. Propylene glycol and butylene glycol are examples that help skin to absorb other ingredients better. Urea and lactic acids are exfoliants that also act as humectants. Sodium PCA is a naturally occurring humectant in our skin and acts as a replenishing ingredient in skincare. Cosrx Ultimate Moisturising Honey Overnight Mask, €27 at boots.ie, is rich in glycerin, butylene glycol and hyaluronic acid, as well as occlusive dimethicone. Despite the name, it does not contain honey, another excellent humectant. Its main ingredient is the antioxidant emollient bee propolis (see below), which also prevents moisture loss.

Ceramides

Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream, €60 at boots.ie

Ceramides hold the skin together and form a protective layer to help prevent moisture loss and visible damage from environmental stressors. We produce them naturally and cosmetic forms offer support to our natural moisture barrier. E lizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream, €60 at boots.ie, is a ceramide-rich moisturiser with slow-release retinol. The ceramides both bind moisture and superficially fill fine lines, helping to give the appearance of a smoother eye area. Mica powder reflects the light in a flaw-blurring fashion. A niacinamide blend can help to improve the appearance of dark circles that are not genetic.

Emollients

Soak Sunday Cleo's Paradise Botanical Body Butter, €20 at beautybay.com

Emollients are conditioners that soften and smooth the skin quickly. They aren’t as deeply hydrating as some claims suggest, but they can help with preventing moisture loss and make tight skin feel comfortable. Plant oils and butters are popular examples. Soak Sunday Cleo’s Paradise Botanical Body Butter, €20 at beautybay.com, is rich in luxurious emollients like cocoa seed butter and sunflower seed, chamomile and manuka oils — all of which have antioxidant properties that help skin fight free radical damage. Soak Sunday is a sensorial and sustainable brand. This body lotion’s packaging is completely recyclable.