Five ways to make the most of your skin and go foundation free

Less foundation is more when you make the most of your skin by using products like salicylic acid, retinol and glycerin-based moisturisers

Some skincare and makeup choices make wearing less foundation or simply going without look that bit better. Image: Laura Mercier.

Now weekday mornings involve leaving home again, applying foundation is a given for many women. I usually count myself among them and there is some research to support our efforts. 

Makeup mogul Charlotte Tilbury points to studies by Procter & Gamble, Harvard University and others in which participants judged women wearing makeup not only as more attractive but more trustworthy and competent than their bare-faced selves. Why wouldn’t you put your best face forward? 

However, these same studies showed that competence and trustworthiness perceptions declined when makeup looked too heavy. You may even feel your best face involves little or no foundation at all. Some skincare and makeup choices make wearing less foundation or simply going without look that bit better.

Here are five ways to make more of less.

Try salicylic acid

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, €12 at theordinary.com.

This exfoliant is for matte-foundation lovers as it will prevent or diminish much of what you are trying to conceal with makeup. 

Salicylic acid reduces shine caused by excess oil through the regulation of sebum production. It can also make the size and shape of pores appear more uniform. 

It is an oil-soluble ingredient that can reach inside a pore’s lining, clearing the debris within and helping to prevent blemishes. Blackheads are an oxidised mix of dead skin cells and oil in the pores and salicylic acid can prevent them far more effectively than scrubs, facial brushes or other aggressive forms of cleansing and exfoliation. 

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, €12, has all the acid’s benefits plus kaolin clay that absorbs oil instantly. If your face is less oily but still acne and blackhead-prone, you may prefer The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution, €7.20, at the ordinary.com

Apply a retinol product

Retinol reduces the need for foundation that improves the look of fine lines and dull skin. After broad-spectrum sun protection, there is no substance better established than retinoic acid for improving non-DNA related skin ageing. 

It makes your face smoother and brighter and improves skin’s natural resilience. You can’t buy retinoic acid without a prescription, but your skin can metabolise some cosmetic forms into the real deal. 

Retinaldehyde and retinol are the forms that convert most readily, and the latter is more widely available in Ireland. I’ve had a nice experience with Alpha-H Vitamin A Serum with Retinol, €51.75 at cultbeauty.com. 

Retinol is sometimes drying, and this serum has a blend of moisture-protective antioxidant emollients, including tomato seed and sunflower oils. It is 0.5% retinol, which should be easy for most skin types to tolerate. 

Retinol is most effective when used at night and it’s essential to wear sun protection afterwards.

Use glycerin-based moisturisers

A glycerin-based serum or moisturiser can give you the dewy glow of luminous foundation. Glycerin is a humectant, meaning it draw moisture from the air and the deeper layers of skin to keep the surface plumped and hydrated. 

Hyaluronic acid is a better-known example of a humectant. However, glycerin is cheaper and of a lower molecular weight than even the lowest molecular weight hyaluronic acid, so can penetrate skin more deeply at a lower price point. 

Pure glycerin is especially cheap but can be drying because a pure humectant sometimes takes too much water from skin when it is extremely dry or if there isn’t enough humidity in the air to draw external moisture. 

It is therefore better to buy a serum or cream that contains water and has glycerin as a base ingredient, as well as lots of nice antioxidants that give skin an added boost. 

Olay Total Effects Anti-Ageing 7-in-1 Instant Smoothing Serum, €21.99 at boots.ie, has a glycerin base and contains replenishing Vitamin E and niacinamide.

Lightly conceal or powder

Conceal: Why ditch one foundation for two other products? Even with the best skincare, genetic dark circles, uneven texture, and any persistent sunspots need a touch of camouflage. 

Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra Wear All Over Concealer, €30 at counters nationwide.

Lancôme describes its new Teint Idole Ultra Wear All Over Concealer, €30 at counters nationwide, as “a small tweak that makes a big impact". The formula comes with a built-in primer, delivering coverage anywhere with a smooth matte finish. It offers 24-hour wear, some hydration, and a great shade range.

Laura Mercier Light Catcher Setting Powder, €44.50 at lookfantastic.ie

Powder: A little powder can go a long way. Laura Mercier’s new Light Catcher Setting Powder, €44.50 at lookfantastic.ie from September 13, is a more pearlescent version of her signature translucent formula. This blend gives 12-hour light-creating wear while blurring pores and smoothing skin. It comes in three shades and has no photo flashback.