The Skin Nerd: Which acids should I use and how will I know if they're right for my skin?

The hero hydrating and exfoliating acids that will help you to achieve your skin goals

Acids - the exfoliation heroes we probably don't deserve.

Acids have reached the skincare hall of fame for plenty of reasons. Depending on the acid you pick, they can hydrate, exfoliate, plump, brighten, smooth and much, much more. But truthfully, it can be tricky finding the right acid for your skin when you’re an acid novice.

Let’s start our nerdie education with an acid that everyone can safely use on their skin – hyaluronic acid (HA). This hero hydrator is different to an alpha-hydroxy or beta-hydroxy acid (both exfoliating acids), because it has no skin-sloughing properties. Instead, this moisture molecule uses its humectant superpowers to attract water from the air and replenish moisture in the skin.

Hyaluronic acid is skin-native, which means that it’s naturally found in our bodies. The humectant keeps our skin hydrated and plump, but our natural supply depletes as we age, which is why everyone should top-up their skin’s stores of hyaluronic acid with topical skincare. Hyaluronic acid is gentle enough for all skin types to use in the morning and evening (and throughout the day) – that includes any mamas-to-be, those with very sensitive skin, and various skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis etc.

Declare Ocean's Best Triple Hyaluron Booster (€65, theskinnerd.com) is a great product because it contains three different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, which means it can penetrate the skin at different depths for maximum hydration.

Now, let’s chat about the exfoliating acids – there are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs). In a nutshell, these chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the “glue”, otherwise known as desmosomes, which keep dead skin cells attached to each other.

Exfoliating acids also encourage the skin to speed up the cell renewal process, thereby improving the appearance of the skin. Different acids do different things, which includes reducing hyperpigmentation, boost collagen production for plumper skin, and improve the skin tone and texture for a tighter, brighter and smoother appearance.

Importantly, it pays to be patient when using exfoliating acids for the first time. I always recommend using exfoliants once a week at the beginning to acclimatize your skin. You can then increase the usage to 2 or 3 times a week once the skin has built up a tolerance.

Alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble exfoliants that suit dry, dehydrated and mature skin types. Glycolic acid is a sugar-derived acid that’s arguably the most used alpha-hydroxy in skincare. That’s because it has a small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin to work its exfoliating magic. Environ’s Focus Care Youth+ Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Toner (€50, theskinnerd.com) contains glycolic acid to smooth skin texture, even skin tone and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

If you have oily or acne-prone skin, you’ll want to get acquainted with beta-hydroxy acids. Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta-hydroxy that’s derived from witch hazel. Salicylic acid penetrates deep within the pores to dissolve sebum and dead skin cells which leads to pesky breakouts – it can also regulate sebum production. To decongest my skin when spots arise, I use Skingredients Sally Cleanse (€27, theskinnerd.com) to purge my pores of grime and to encourage my skin to exfoliate itself.

Have you switched from being an acid newbie to acid nerd? I hope you feel more confident about incorporating these hydrating and exfoliating heroes into your skincare routine – my advice would be to introduce the acids slowly to build up a tolerance and then you’re golden.