The Skin Nerd: Why exfoliating enzymes deserve a spot in your skincare routine

Worry not – those with sensitive skin and mamas-to-be can still get in on the exfoliation action

Tue, 06 Jul, 2021 - 20:00

Jennifer Rock

Enzymes. Have you heard of them? They’re active ingredients with exfoliating properties suited to sensitive skin types and mamas-to-be who can't turn to chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid or glycolic acid to slough off pesky dead skin cells.

I would also recommend enzymes to those with more mature skin. Our skin’s renewal rate naturally slows down as we age, and enzymes can gently prompt our skin cells to turnover without causing irritation or dehydration.

I like to think of enzymatic exfoliation as the skincare equivalent of Pacman. Enzymes gobble up the “glue” keeping dead skin cells attached to the stratum corneum – the outmost layer of skin in the epidermis. The stratum corneum is composed entirely of dead skin cells, which acts as a “skin barrier” between the body and the environment. In essence, enzymes simply speed up the natural process of skin sloughing to reveal the fresher, healthier cells residing underneath.

Interestingly, you’ve probably already felt enzymes in action. Ever noticed a stinging sensation in your mouth after eating pineapple? That’ll be bromelain, the enzyme found within pineapple, breaking down the protective proteins in your mouth. But don’t worry, the oh-so-gentle enzymes we apply to our faces won’t cause the same reaction.

The enzymes used in skincare are sourced from fruit and vegetables. If you have a look at an enzyme-based product’s INCI lists, aka list of ingredients, you might notice the formula contains papain (derived from papaya), bromelain (derived from pineapple) and pumpkin enzymes. These are classed as proteolytic enzymes, which basically means they break down proteins.

Enzymes unlock a multitude of skin benefits. They exfoliate your skin, but they can also improve the texture of your skin and refine your skin tone by addressing pigmentation. Some enzymes even have anti-inflammatory properties, which help to soothe and calm irritated skin.

Just like introducing a new exfoliating acid into your routine, it’s best to slowly acclimatise your skin to enzymes. The Declare Soft Cleansing Enzyme Peel (€33, theskinnerd.com) is gentle enough to be used on the most sensitive skin types, which makes it a fabulous option if you’re using enzymes for the first time. I would advise that you use the cleansing peel twice a week in the evening; simply combine the powder with water to cleanse and gently exfoliate. I also love the Papaya Enzyme Peel by Elemis (€42, millies.ie). It’s a cream cleanser brimming with papain and bromelain – derived from papaya and pineapple – to exfoliate, as well as vitamin E to nourish and provide antioxidant protection.

In my nerdie opinion, enzymes are undeniably deserving of a spot in your skincare arsenal – especially if your skin can’t tolerate powerful active ingredients and you want a slice of the exfoliating action. My advice? Be patient when waiting for noticeable skin results because enzymes take time to work their magic.

Nerdie Pick

Solgar Vegan Digestive Enzymes (€10.75, theskinnerd.com)

I’m a huge believer that we should feed our skin from within, and the Solgar Vegan Digestive Enzymes assist in breaking down your food to make sure you’re getting all essential nutrients. A healthy, balanced diet will only get you so far if you’re not properly digesting your food and the blend of enzymes in Solgar’s supplements give a helping hand. Moral of the story? Apply topical enzymes to maintain skin health and take enzyme supplements to support your digestive system. It’s as simple as taking one chewy tablet with each meal.