The Skin Nerd: Should you hydrate oily skin?

Summer is a tricky time for oily skin, it might produce excess sebum, but it can still lack moisture

It might seem counterintuitive but oily skin can experience dehydration.

Sunshine is good for the soul, but humidity can spell an increase in sebum production – a summertime nuisance for oily-skinned folk. Our skin can naturally feel a little greasier in the warmer months but that’s not an invitation to skip the skincare steps that hydrate your skin.

First off, it’s important to understand sebum’s role in maintaining healthy skin. Sebum, aka oil, is the waxy substance that’s produced by our sebaceous glands. In essence, sebum sits on the surface and “waterproofs” the skin to prevent moisture loss through the epidermis, the outermost layer of skin.

Some people produce too much sebum and have oily skin, whereas others produce too little sebum and have dry skin. Therefore, it doesn’t make sense for someone to have oily and dry skin. In fact, oily-skinned hoomans can have dehydrated skin – a skin condition that occurs due to a lack of water, not a lack of sebum.

Oily skin types can experience dehydration as a result of overusing active ingredients, like exfoliating acids, in an effort to control sebum production. Don’t worry, I know you were trying to do your skin a solid! Notably, your diet, stress, allergens and the weather can also trigger skin dehydration.

Dehydration in oily skin can manifest as a “tight” feeling, dullness, sensitivity and even congestion. To get nerdie, dehydration is a by-product of the skin barrier weakening and becoming compromised by a trigger. A weakened skin barrier makes it much easier for harmful irritants to enter and moisture to escape.

Now, I’m not saying that you should be using thick, creamy moisturisers; they can clog your pores if you have oily skin and cause congestion. Instead, opt for lightweight skincare products that contain hydrating ingredients to replenish moisture without settling in your pores.

Serums are fabulous for hydrating without the heaviness associated with thicker moisturisers as they have a much thinner consistency. I would encourage you to look for serums that contain ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid – humectants that pull moisture from the atmosphere and retain it within the skin. Nerdie fact: hyaluronic acid can hold 1000 x its weight in water, while polyglutamic acid holds 4 x that. Impressive, right?!

It might be pricey, but I think the 111SKIN Hyaluronic Acid Booster (€100, 111skin.com) is worth every penny. It contains low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid which means that it can penetrate deeper into the skin to work its hydrating magic. It also contains urea, another humectant, which is naturally found in our natural moisturising factor (NMF). The NMF hydrates the skin and contributes to the skin barrier performing optimally. Finally, the serum booster also contains niacinamide, otherwise known as vitamin B3, which stimulates ceramide synthesis to stimulate a strong skin barrier.

I’m excited to share that Adare Manor in County Limerick has partnered with 111SKIN to create 111SPA/CLINIC. You best believe I’ve already booked myself a treatment!

If you’re an oily hooman that’s prone to breakouts, the Avéne Cleanance Comedomed Anti-Blemishes Concentrate (€22, theskinnerd.com) is a smart choice. It contains glycerin to hydrate, Avéne Thermal Spring Water which is a soothing treat for inflamed skin and a milk thistle derivative to reduce excess sebum production.

In my nerdie opinion, all hoomans of all ages and genders should be hydrating their skin – regardless of their skin type. If I were to share a final piece of skin guidance, I would say that oily skin types should also consider oil-free and non-comedogenic formulations as there’s less chance of congestion.

Ceramides strengthen the skin barrier while hyaluronic acid replenishes our natural reservoir of moisture within our skin.

Nerdie Pick

Supplements are another way to serve oily skin moisture without the risk of clogging pores. The Advanced Nutrition Programme Moisture lock supplements contain hero hydrator hyaluronic acid as well as ceramides to replenish and protect our skin’s moisture stores from the inside out.

Ceramides are skin-native lipids, aka fatty molecules, which make up the skin barrier – the ceramides in these capsules come from lipowheat oil. Take 1 to 2 of the Moisture Lock capsules daily alongside your balanced diet for best results and enjoy hydrated, plumped skin.

Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Moisture Lock (€91, theskinnerd.com)