Trend of the Week: practical fashion and fancy wellies rule the runways, weather permitting
A model presents a creation for Prada's Women Fall - Winter 2020 fashion collection on February 20, 2020 in Milan. (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP) (Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP via Getty Images)
Each new season sees its share of delightful but often delusional trends.
Sweaters with dangerously long sleeves, floor-sweeping faux fur coats and Victoriana capes all illustrate their Instagram mettle until gale-force winds and interminable damp days prove that real life always has the upper hand.
Rather than capitulate, we baby-name storms and colour-code weather warnings; as if infantilising Mother Nature somehow makes her less punitive.
This season appears to be the exception. For autumn/winter 2020, Danish rainwear brand Rains hosted its first runway show; Prada (above) and Bottega Veneta (below) showcased reimagined wellies; while Lemaire dressed models in hooded trench coats with prodigious storm flaps.
The high street, similarly, followed suit with chains and boutiques prioritising substantial coats, bucket-style rain hats and heavyweight boots as hero pieces.
As COVID-19 engenders a new era of pandemic-proof staples, might this pivot towards utility be indicative of a larger cultural shift? Could functionality mark a paradigm for the new normal as we spend more time outdoors? Are trend forecasters and Met Eireann having a stormy affair? Our wardrobes need answers.
Emily Gordon-Smith, director of consumer product at trends intelligence company Stylus has the inside scoop. “At Stylus, we’ve been tracking the burgeoning appeal of pragmatic outerwear as part of a broader trend which is, in part, about a desire to be outside and in nature but is also about us all adapting to a changing climate,” she explains.
“And with increasingly unpredictable and extreme weather patterns, consumer demand for waterproofed, resilient and protective pieces has grown exponentially – so smart retailers and brands are responding by building these practical properties into all kinds of products.” What’s more, they’ve made them covetable.
Cult Copenhagen brand Ganni interpreted the darker months with typical bricolage thanks to a collaboration with twenty multimedia artists: fleece-lined bucket hats, lug-sole boots, quilted toggle jackets with ruffled collars, oversized knits with bejewelled buttons, and crocheted berets clash with aplomb.
Baum und Pfedergarten (a favourite at boutiques like Bluefig, Cork and MacBees, Killarney) created a quirky edit of Fair Isle sweaters, puffer gilets and bucolic check coats: a look that lends itself to a `70s music festival thanks to offbeat styling cues.
In the same vein, Coach 1941 translated the American campground with anoraks, fleece vests, hands-free crossbody bags and chunky-soled hiking sandals (worn with thick socks) – all with a street-style sensibility. In short, it works.
So, after winters of trying to navigate fair weather trends while cursing the heavens at the mere sight of a cloud, could this be the start of a less passive-aggressive relationship with our wardrobes? Stylist, and personal shopper, Natasha Crowley seems to think so.
“I've definitely noticed with my personal shopping clients that the order of the day is now for a capsule wardrobe of hardworking yet stylish everyday pieces that will suit our more outdoorsy lifestyle where the weekend could see you hiking around the hills of West Cork or strolling along the beach,” she says. “People want to still look good while engaging in outdoor pursuits and are more inclined to spend money on the more practical, weatherproof items that you know are going to last.
Let's face it: there are only about two weeks in the year when we don't need to carry outerwear with us so we might as well invest in it.” Quite right too. In these uncertain times, we are appraising our resources more mindfully.
According to a survey of 4,500 consumers in nine countries including thirty-five cities by professional services firm PwC; less income as a result of the pandemic is changing consumer spending with four out of ten (40%) respondents reporting a decrease in income as a result of job loss or redundancy following the pandemic.
With newly tightened household restrictions and a moratorium placed on the opening of pubs and events, the outdoors has become our de facto social sphere. The dress code, thankfully, is far more lenient. Here are the headlines.
Last year’s homage to the Matrix-style boot finds its feet again albeit with an all-terrain edge.
Expect Chelsea iterations complete with ribbed rubber soles, toe caps and welts as seen at Ganni (€375) or those with Italian-made slip-free functionality thanks to deep traction-worthy lugs courtesy of Arket (€225). The wellington 2.0 joins the fray in ankle, and knee-high styles made with technical latex foam insoles for greater comfort and flexibility.
Look to Zara (€49.95) for the best in show.
Getting a festival flashback? Try Dubarry of Ireland’s ‘Galway’ leather boot (€370) made with DryFast-DrySoft™ leather, lined with GORE-TEX and finished with seepage-proof toggles.
In keeping with protection from the elements, the poncho is experiencing a fashion moment not seen since the noughties. Although knit versions have most catwalk appeal, the protective nous of the garment holds sovereign status. Take ‘Cape’ (€90), for instance: a modern take on a classic rain poncho by Rains.
Made from the brand’s signature waterproof fabric, the loose, billowing silhouette, can convert to optional sleeves for more fitted wear; plus, it boasts thumb loops for cyclists and a drawstring hood with a built-in cap.
Almost sold-out, its waterproof and windproof ‘Belt’ (€95) jacket in shiny brown serves up high fashion realness. If Jane Birkin did Irish staycations, she’d be wearing one of these.
For colder days, Swedish highstreet brand Arket delivers Nordic know-how with its popular Re:Down® hooded coat (€250). Made from 100 per cent recycled down and feathers; this evergreen product stays popular thanks to its two-way zip and slide slits with snap buttons for ease of movement.
Plus, there’s a hooded waistcoat sibling (€175) for wearing with army boots and a floral midi dress while the mercury is perimenopausal.
As our lives become less compartmentalised and more blended, the need for multi-tasking pieces that go the distance becomes part of our new reality. Much in the same way as technology transformed a new generation of sportswear with moisture-wicking, and anti-microbial fabric properties, we can soon expect brands to future-proof our everyday fashion choices too.
“In the current Covid-19 landscape, this trend is ever more pertinent as we seek to be out-of-doors but to feel shielded and safe, adds Gordon-Smith. “So, expect to see anti-viral and anti-bacterial coatings added to the list of value-adding finishes and expect to see masks, visors, hoods and gloves become part of the new weather-ready wardrobe.”
In the meantime, we’re ready for you, Saidhbhín.
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