The Skin Nerd: Exfoliating too much with acids or scrubs does more harm than good 

If you are experiencing skin itchiness and redness for no reason, you may be exfoliating too often, according to Jennifer Rock
The Skin Nerd: Exfoliating too much with acids or scrubs does more harm than good 
Itchiness and irritation can be a sign of over-exfoliation.

Q. I got into skincare properly last year and started exfoliating, double cleansing, and using serums. I’ve noticed in the last few months that my skin can be quite itchy and red at times and doesn’t seem to be hydrated for long no matter what I do.

Do you have any advice on this?

 — Katie, Mallow

I cannot be 100% certain as to what is causing this— it could be anything or a number of factors all coming together to cause this skin irritation, from a new product you are using to using the wrong type of product to your skin, to stress, or a change in your lifestyle.

However, it could be possible that you’re over - exfoliating and causing damage to your skin’s protective barrier — but don’t fret, you are certainly not the only one! Exfoliating is fantastic and integral, in my opinion. 

Many don’t realise that your skin actually exfoliates itself naturally through the skin cell regeneration process, with dead skin cells shedding off and newer, fresher skin cells replacing them.

As we age, this natural exfoliation process begins to slow down — from as early as your mid-20s — and some people just need to help their skin along with exfoliating due to genetic inclinations or their skin type, such as excessive ly oily skin.

This is why I believe that exfoliation is key in a thorough skincare routine, and exfoliation with the right products in the right amounts allows us to look glowier , to see less congestion in the skin, and to see improved hydration.

If you have gotten quite into skincare, I will make the assumption that you are opting for more skin-respectful chemical exfoliants rather than scrubs, which can be too abrasive.  

However,  choosing acids or enzymes over scrubs does not mean that they cannot cause harm at all, especially if you’re using them a lot.

The signs of over -e xfoliation include tightness, dryness, flakiness, redness in the skin where it wasn’t before, skin that is easily irritated , or skin that appears shiny and thin. 

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Essentially, if you’re using chemical exfoliants (or scrubs or exfoliating brushes) too frequently, or using too many products containing them, you may damage your skin’s protective barrier. 

Now, our barrier is naturally acidic — this is why I am pro-acid exfoliation with ingredients like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, lactic acid, or polyhydroxy acids, for example. Our skin knows acids and usually knows what to do with them. 

However, too much of them is more than our skin can handle, and your barrier can become compromised, meaning that it cannot protect itself on the daily.

How often are you using your salicylic acid or AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) cleanser, serum, or toner? Is it every single night? 

In my opinion, high amounts of acids should only be used every 2 – 3 nights maximum! Take a break from your exfoliating products for a week or t wo, see if your skin seems stronger and happier, and then slowly reintroduce once a week, gradually upping to once every 3 nights.

Check to see if maybe you have exfoliating ingredients in a wide array of products in your routine! 

Some do not realise that they are using prescription retinol with a glycolic acid night serum plus an exfoliating acid toner and a salicylic acid spot treatment after an exfoliating cleanser  — and this is simply too much exfoliation

Pa re it back, give your skin a bit of a rest and if this does not help your skin, speak to a skincare professional — we would always be happy to guide you through the Nerd Network .

It is also possible that you are not over-exfoliating, but could it be that your skin is a bit dehydrated in general? If you’re using a hyaluronic acid serum, you may need a heavier moisturiser on top with lipidic ingredients like ceramides to help your skin to lock in moisture.

The Nerdie Pick

Avéne Rich Skin Recovery Cream (€16.50, theskinnerd.com and selected pharmacies)
Avéne Rich Skin Recovery Cream (€16.50, theskinnerd.com and selected pharmacies)

Avéne’s Rich Skin Recovery Cream is formulated for those with sensitive skin or skin that has become sensitised, which means skin that needs a bit of a boost to its potentially damaged barrier.

This cream soothes the skin, hydrates it deeply and acts to help restore the barrier while providing a thin film on the skin to help protect it. 

It’s created to have as few ingredients as possible, which, for many very sensitive skins, can prove beneficia l.

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