Tried and tested: Brow ink, face gels and skin brighteners
BROW INK
Brow ink, like liquid eyeliner, creates strong definition and is a powerful reshaping tool.
Symmetric beginnings, dark arches and perfectly-tapered ends are all enhanced by choosing ink over more subtle creams and kohls.
The finish should be matte, so as not to look painted on, but a brow pen’s ideal qualities are otherwise similar to that of a good eye pen: intense, consistent pigmentation, a long-wearing formula and a precise applicator.
I had high hopes for this bargain pen, all swiftly dashed by the smudge-prone formula and reddish brunette shades. If you like the blonde or black, try sealing it with a clear gel or powder.
Chelsea-based Cosmetics Á La Carte, where U2 reportedly shopped for makeup before the 1987 Joshua Tree tour, specialises in elegant your-face-but-better makeup. This pen is ideal for balancing asymmetric brows and creating realistic hair where gaps are plain.
The formula dries quickly to a matte finish and the marker tip is ultra-fine. Once dry it really is budge-proof, so it is important to work quickly and keep a brow-brush or spoolie handy.
This pen has an interesting tri-tip applicator that makes each stroke look like three super-fine hairs. The triple delivery system is a time-saver, though if you prefer to draw single strands you can just turn the tip on its side.
The formula is waterproof and dries quickly, so fix mistakes as they happen! There are five shades available including one for grey brows, which is relatively rare.
This marker has the same tip as MAC’s Penultimate Eyeliner and is perfect for creating fine, feathery hairs. The formula provides consistent colour and there is time to play around before it sets to a natural finish.
Unfortunately it comes in just one shade of slightly reddish-brown. This lack of colour choice is very unusual from MAC and a bit disappointing.
Lab Series does not disappoint with this leave-on treatment, which is appropriate for daily use if you have serious oil issues. The formula contains not one but three clay powders, all of which curb shine and tighten pores without irritating the skin.
Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid capable of both refining pores and cleansing inside them, is also on the ingredients list. Soothing plant extracts reduce redness and fight environmental damage.
This gel-cream is mildly fragrance, though not enough to bother sensitive skin.
Blemish Remedy is a light and comforting makeup base for oily and combination skin.
It serves best as a redness-reducing layer of antioxidants before foundation. The formula contains several soothing plant-extracts and a crosspolymer that both binds water and control shines.
This makes the gel a lovely lightweight moisturiser but not absorbent enough to keep skin matte all day. It will not keep large pores in check for hours, either, though it does have a temporary tightening effect.
Clear Difference is far too expensive for a gel formula and the jar packaging is not ideal for keeping the ingredients stable and hygienic, as it exposes them to light and air whenever the lid is off.
This is a shame, as it does contain high concentrations of soothing extracts and antioxidants (which may account for the price).
A mild exfoliant in the mix works to refine pores over time. The gel feels silky and dries to a soft matte finish that lasts several hours.
This is a wonderful lightweight moisturiser, high in antioxidants and water-binding ingredients. The formula is soothing and fragrance-free. It is quite silicone-rich, setting to a matte finish and creating a primer-like base for makeup.
A particularly high concentration of niacinamide aids cell repair and supports healthy collagen development. This may help to reduce pore-size long-term and the siliconea hides the in the short.
No. 91 is one of six (go figure) new skincare ‘remedies’ by Bobbi Brown. Each targets a different issue — eg dullness, dehydration, inflammation.
I would like to see them combined in one fabulous serum but that does not dovetail with the current vogue for minibar-sized bottles of potent ingredients, so here we are. No.91 is indeed rich in greens that brighten skin whether you eat them or apply them.
Green algae, kale, sprout and spinach extracts boost the reparative powers of your other skincare without changing their texture. This ferment suits all skin types, I just wish you got a little more product for your money.
The formula is high in Vitamin C, always a power-player in sun-damage repair, and also contains lots of arbutin (bearberry extract). Arbutin has a substantial amount of research backing its complexion-lightening benefits.
It is also one to look out for if your skin cannot tolerate retinol, as its reparative effects are comparable (though arbutin products are generally more expensive).
Paula’s Choice provides an additional range of soothing and lightly moisturising ingredients. Using broad-spectrum sun protection with this product is vital to maximising its many benefits.
Immortelle contains plenty of Vitamin C but disappointingly moderate concentrations of other antioxidants, especially compared with the amounts of flower oils and perfume in the formula.
Fragrance sensitises skin over time, impeding natural repair. The generous quantity of chamomile feels more soothing and the evening primrose, borage and castor oils are great moisturisers.
Eucerin is best known for products that help psoriasis and eczema sufferers manage their conditions, so it is no surprise that this is very emollient and best suits dry skin. It is also fragrance and alcohol free and appropriate for sensitive types.
Antioxidants including arginine and liquorice extract make this a great anti-ageing serum generally, but the formula’s key brightening ingredient (b-resorcinol) has far less independent research backing the brand’s claims than Vitamin C, retinol, arbutin or kojic acid.
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