Nailing the perfect brow

Whether you want them full and furry or nice and neat, eyebrow maintenance options are manifold, says Katie Wright.

DID you know that in Ancient Greece, the monobrow was seen as a symbol of great beauty and intelligence? Women even went so far as to fashion little furry patches out of goat hair, to fake the bushy-brow look.

Since then, eyebrow desirability has waxed (quite literally) and waned throughout the decades, from Clara Bow’s thin, pencilled-on arches in the 20s, to the major facial architecture of Brooke Shields in the 80s and Cara Delevingne today.

Thankfully, the monobrow has yet to make a return, and nowadays it’s more about personal preference and finding what suits.

But there are so many brow-beating products on offer, it can be hard to know where to start. Let our follicular FAQ guide you through...

IS THERE A FOOLPROOF WAY TO GET THE PERFECT ARCH?

“To find your perfect brow shape, you need to find where your brow should start, arch and end. This can be different on different eye and face shapes,” says Lauren Hogsden, assistant make-up and trend artist for Benefit. “Follow these simple steps at home to map your way to a perfect brow.

“Starting with a make-up-free brow, use a brow brush and brush your brows through, so all hairs are sitting in the correct place.

“Hold a pencil parallel to the side of your nose and align the top of the pencil to the inner corner of the eye — the inner edge of your brows should start here. Using a brow pencil, mark this point.

“To determine the highest peak of your arch, place the pencil at an angle from the outside corner of your nose through the centre of your iris. Using a brow pencil, mark this point.

“Hold the pencil diagonally from the outside corner of the nose to the outside corner of your eye, this will then tell you where your brow should end. Using a brow pencil, mark this point.

“Using the brow pencil marks as a guide for plucking is a great way to understand your personal brow shape and to avoid that dreaded over- plucking situation.”

Tweezerman Gear Slant Tweezer, €28.00 (www.boots.ie)

No7 Lash & Brow Brush Pro, €9.25 (Boots)

Hi Brow Smoothing Wax Pencil, €9.40 plus postage. www.capitalhairandbeauty.ie

ARE BOLD EYEBROWS ONLY SUITED TO CERTAIN FACE SHAPES?

“Everyone can achieve a fuller brow look, but it is important to know your brow shape, and what you can achieve,” Hogsden advises. “Follow my tips for brow mapping [above] — this will provide you with the shape best suited to your eyes and face.

“When applying brow products use a hard-angled brush and apply your brow colour in soft, short, hair-like strokes. Avoid harsh lines or borders to the brow; this will insure a natural bold look.”

B Cinnamon Spice Brow Definer, €18.07, free delivery (www.feelunique.com)

Pur Minerals Wake Up Brow Pencil in Blonde Roast, €19 (www.marksandspencer.ie)

HOW IS THREADING DIFFERENT TO DIY PLUCKING?

“Threading is gentler than any other method of hair removal,” says Jaimineey Patel, leading therapist at Blink Brow Bar. “Cotton thread is glided across the skin, removing excess hair. “The thread grabs and teases out every single hair by its root leaving a smoother, cleaner finish with longer lasting results. The finish is wonderfully neat and perfectly symmetrical eyebrows, which can take years off your face.” HELP! I’VE OVER-PLUCKED, WHAT SHOULD I DO?

“The best solution is to grow your brows out,” says Patel. “It can be a lengthy process, but patience and perseverance will give a better regrowth, and a fresh canvas to create your desired brow shape from.

“Use brow products as motivation while you wait for yours to grow! Apply B Brow Definer to outline the shape you want to achieve, then use powder to fill in any gaps and set with a brow gel to keep the hairs in place. Seeing the brows look fuller will give you an incentive to grow your brows out and create the real deal!”

Hi Brow Eyebrow Growth & Conditioning Serum, €18.10 plus postage. (www.capitalhairandbeauty.ie)

CAN I CUT MY BROWS TO MAKE THEM NEATER?

“Straggly brows can be easily tamed by using a brow gel,” Patel says. “Trimming is not always necessary, but if so, it’s best left to the brow experts to avoid over-trimming and an uneven finish.”

MY EYEBROWS ARE REALLY PALE. WHAT’S THE BEST TECHNIQUE TO FILL THEM IN SO THEY LOOK NATURAL?

“If your brows have lost their natural pigment or are naturally pale, opt for a powder or fibre-based brow product, to insure your brows have a soft finish, such as Benefit’s Gimme Brow,” Hogsen advises. “This coloured fibre-based gel gently colours the brow while adhering tiny microfibres that mimic the look of real hair, providing volume throughout the brow.”

Benefit Gimme Brow Brow- Volumising Fibre Gel in Medium/Deep, €25.50 (www.debenhams.ie)

B Indian Chocolate Gel, €20.85, free delivery (www.feelunique.com)

Benefit Brow Zings Brow Shaping Kit in Deep, €34 (Debenhams).

HOW SHOULD I CHOOSE AN EYEBROW TINT SHADE?

“Those with lighter brows will love the impact that darkening eyebrows can have,” Patel says. “A tint should be one shade darker than your natural hair colour — the added colour will give your brows depth and presence, enhancing your eyes.

“At-home brow tints are a no-no in my book, however — I’ve had to fix too many disasters!”