Product Watch: Retinol

Retinol is one of the most buzzed about anti-aging ingredients in skincare, included in a bamboozling array of products. Rachel Marie Walsh explains why, and how, you should make it part of your regime.

Retinol can “compel” a corrupted skin cell to behave like a youthful one, but should be used with other anti-aging products.

What is retinol?

Retinol is the technical name for the vitamin A molecule. Vitamin A can be broken down into cosmetic forms of varying strength. Common, over-the-counter forms include retinol (the most effective) and the derivatives, retinyl palmitate, retinaldehyde and retinyl linoleate. Prescription retinol products, like Renova and Retin-A, contain the active ingredient, tretinoin. Tretinoin works faster than retinol, but has a far higher risk of irritation.

How does it help my skin?

Vitamin A is an antioxidant. It can interrupt the free-radical damage that creates wrinkles and slows collagen production. Retinol is also a potent cell-communicating ingredient. It breaks down into retinoic acid within the skin and can compel a corrupted cell to behave like a healthy, youthful one. This communication is good for sun-damaged skin of any age, because UV-damage produces abnormal cells that cause discolouration and wrinkles.

Is retinol the best anti-aging ingredient?

No skincare ingredient can hold back the years. Any form of retinol should be used with other anti-aging products that contain proven ingredients, like antioxidants (vitamin C, green tea), skin-repairers (resveratrol, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid), soothers (chamomile, aloe vera) and cell-communicating ingredients like niacinamide and peptides. Despite retinol’s alpha status, treating signs of ageing requires a pack of beneficial ingredients (see my recommendations).

Whether you use an over-the-counter or prescription retinol product, daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen, rated SPF25 or higher, is essential. The most potent, research-backed ingredients are seriously impaired by UV exposure. Sun damage causes most of what anti-aging products seek to improve.

I have heard retinol makes skin redden and peel...

Severe irritation is a sign that your skin cannot tolerate the amount of retinol you are using. This reaction is most common when using prescription retinol products, but even over-the-counter products should be introduced into your regime slowly. Start by applying a moderate amount before bed, every second night, under your regular moisturiser. Store-bought products can be applied everywhere but the eyelids. If all goes well for the first fortnight, you can try using it nightly and even during the day (under sunscreen).

I have not had great experiences with retinol products. How do I choose an effective one?

Effective retinol products of any strength are packaged to protect their contents from light, dirt and air (i.e., no jars or clear bottles). Great formulas combine retinol with other skin-supporting ingredients and are free from potential irritants. Ingredients that present a strong risk of irritation (even if it is not immediately visible on skin’s surface) include fragrance, alcohol, fragrant plant extracts, mint oils and the preservative, methylisothiazolinone. These ingredients can also spur collagen breakdown and free-radical damage.

Five Great Retinol Products

1. Murad Time Release Retinol Concentrate for Deep Wrinkles, €78 @ Therapie clinics nationwide.

2. StriVectin Advanced Retinol Concentrated Serum, €110 @ SpaceNK and Harvey Nichols, Dundrum, from July 1.

3. Dr Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Antioxidant Firming Serum, €81.25 @ www.feelunique.com

4. Jan Marini Skin Research Age Intervention Retinol Plus, €89 @ www.facethefuture.co.uk

5. Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Ferulic + Retinol Triple Correction Eye Serum, €58.57 @ www.feelunique.com