Wine: Looking into Ireland's spirit industry

In my last column of 2015 I was going to go focus on the wine highlights of the year but in fact there have been far more landmarks in the spirit world here in Ireland.

We now have 32 distilleries either up-and-running or due to open in the next year or two and the early adopters are starting to win awards and distribution deals.

Meanwhile the Midleton distillery is still producing some of the most exciting whiskey around — I love the new Powers releases for example.

One significant distillery (and brewery) opening this year was Boann on the site of a failed BMW showroom in Co Louth. This is owned by the Gleeson family that started Tipperary Water and they have installed the charming Áine O’Hora as head brewer/distiller (one of a few women in whiskey in Ireland). Expect to hear a lot more about her.

Kalak Vodka and Thin Gin launched this year and Blackwater Gin introduced some interesting new lines including a pure juniper cask gin and a copper pot still gin. This is just the beginning.

Now that Christmas Day is over it is time to think about New Year so all my recommendations this week are Champagnes. I had hoped to find some good sparkling wines to mention but going through my notes from the past year there were none that had not been mentioned here before.

Yes the market is awash with Prosecco but I’ve rather fallen out of love with it, especially the rather sweet and flabby frizzante versions which are so prevalent.

Frizzante Prosecco is taxed at still wine rates while all full-fizz wines on the market are taxed at double the rate of regular wine. What this means is that it is just not worth importing better Cavas such as Gramona or Anna de Codorniu and we are left with the rather dull entry level wine.

I’m not sure there is even one Franciacorta on the market here, despite the fine quality of this Lombardy wine region.

An Italian friend brought me over a small selection recently and they were all excellent and made using the traditional method using the same grapes as Champagne.

BEST VALUE UNDER €40

Bissinger Grand Prestige Champagne, France — €29.99

Stockist: Lidl

The three Bissinger Champagnes in Lidl are all worth a try, the entry level is the lightest and the rosé has some characterful cherry fruit but this has some extra depth and character which is why I chose to feature it.

Perhaps a little lighter than the other recommended wines below but with good yeasty aromas, richness on the palate and lingering citrus freshness.

Duval-Leroy Champagne NV, France — €39 (was €48)

Stockist: Curious Wines Cork and Naas www.curiouswines.ie

A great price for this NV from a family run Champagne house founded in 1859, currently overseen by Madame Carol Duval-Leroy.

Aromas of bruised apples, brioche and citrus, fine persistent mousse and a very pleasant suppleness on the palate with lingering dried fruit flavours. Excellent.

Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne — €35

Stockist: Tesco

Tesco has the best fizz bargains of all the supermarkets so a visit between now and New Year is recommended.

This is made from 75% Chardonnay which gives a lovely lightness of touch to the wine and fine aromas of lemon rind, toasted brioche and crisp apples. Quite fruit-driven on the palate but with good fresh acidity.

BEST VALUE OVER €40

Drappier Quattuor, Blanc de Quatre Blanc Champagne, France — €84.95

Stockist: The Corkscrew www.thecorkscrew.ie

Made from an equal blend of the four permissible white grapes, two of which are wilfully obscure — Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Arbanne and Petit Meslier. Made from free-run juice and with a low dosage (4.2g/l).

Seductive aromas of honey and apple mixed with white flowers, citrus and mineral complexity on the palate, lingering apple freshness on the finish.

Oudinot Vintage Champagne 2007, France — €46

Stockist: Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer is always a good bet for Champagne and for fizz in general. As this is a vintage Champagne you will notice a more yeasty character to the wine, bright fresh aromas of baking bread with touches of chalk and white pepper.

Round and full on the palate with a lingering citrus kick on the finish.

Bollinger Rosé Champagne NV, France — €65

Stockist: O’Briens

This is available elsewhere but at a higher price. Bollinger is my favourite NV Champagne and their Rosé is also fairly benchmark.

Red-currant and raspberries on the nose with a hint of cherry, more red fruits on the palate and ripe textured fruits on the finish. Try with meringues, fresh fruit and cream for dessert.