Wines this week are a mixed bag
Of course anything could happen between now and the Autumn, but I’m hoping I’ll beat the miserly 12 plums and 14 apples I harvested last year.
In the wine world the same thoughts are going through winegrowers minds in the Northern Hemisphere (the Southern Hemisphere Harvest is all in by now with the odd exception).
By now the first green shoots are well developed on the vines, but flowering won’t happen until sometime in May. The worry now is late frosts which can kill the tender shoots.
Of course after the flowers have come you also need good weather or the berries will not form and once they form they could get hit by hail as happened in much of France last June or a host of other problems before harvest.
The weather in wine regions used to be relatively predictable but this is not the case anymore due to the changes in the world’s climate (according to the winemakers I meet) so keep some of this in mind the next time you open a bottle of wine that disappoints or pleases you.
Grape growing is difficult work and transforming those grapes into good wine is even harder.
Wines this week are a mixed bag but all from places that have been affected by changes in global weather a little more than most.
I made an error a few weeks back in attributing Atlantik Albarino to Fillaboa when the two companies are quite separate. Hence I review Fillaboa’s main wine below, plus another outstanding white from Wines Direct.
I haven’t featured O’Donovans wines much of late so below are three bargains they have in stock for the next few weeks.
I had to mention a Cabernet-Merlot I tasted from Curious Wines as it tasted so good it couldn’t wait for the Australia themed column I will be writing shortly.
Stockist: O’Donovans
Finding a good Prosecco Frizzante is not easy as most lack fragrance and freshness (the lower fizz which puts it in a lower tax band doesn’t help). This one I liked, however — and with a good price, too. Aromas of Cox’s Pippins, and Peach, more soft apples and pears on the palate and a dry finish.
Stockist: O’Donovans
The 2010 vintage in Bordeaux was kind to all producers, regardless of size. Most of the 2010s from the smaller Chateau are long gone but still drinking well. This will keep a few years yet — earthy black fruit aromas, good structure, and fruit with a soft middle and a bit of bite in the finish.
Stockist: O’Donovans
Finding good value (and good tasting) Australian wine isn’t easy these days. Legendary winemaker Peter Lehmann died in 2013 and his company is now owned by Casella (Yellow Tail) but I think he would be pleased this entry-level Shiraz was still drinking so well — bright and juicy black fruits with spice and chocolate overtones.
Fillaboa Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain — €20.70
Stockist: Wines Direct at Arnotts and nationwide via www.winesdirect.ie
Fillaboa is a member of Grande Pagos de Espana and all the grapes are grown on its own estate on the slopes that lead to the River Mino, Galicia’s border with Portugal. Honey and sweet white peach aromas, weighty palate but with a fine apple and citrus finish. The perfect match for shellfish.
Stockist: Wines Direct at Arnotts and nationwide via www.winesdirect.ie
Pouilly Fuissé is generally regarded as the best wine of Macon at the southern end of Burgundy. Made from organic bio-dynamic grapes this is a beautifully pure wine, aromatic (pears, lime essence, sweet apples) and racy and complex on the palate with more pears, almonds, and a very long finish. The best Pouilly Fuissé under €50 that I have tasted.
Stockist: Curious Wines Cork and Naas and nationwide via www.curiouswines.ie
This Bordeaux-style blend is mostly Cabernet (86%), but sweet blackcurrants dominate the nose along with a touch of toasted oak and chocolate. On the palate this is very rich and satisfying, packed with fruit and spice. The finish is complex, with touches of cinnamon. Excellent price.
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