Advice: Book a train to The Ox Cave Wine Bar, Belfast

Matching food and wine is an imprecise art at the best of times, says Leslie Williams.

Matching food and wine is an imprecise art at the best of times. Finding an adequate match is easy enough, but perfect matches are rare — as rare as great sommeliers.

Throw in complex flavours such as syrupy black garlic purée, fermented kohlrabi, and burnt onion powder as on the menu in Ox in Belfast, and things get more complicated still.