Top tea test —not just a mug’s game

I MEET master tea-blender, Denis Daly, in a restaurant off St. Stephen’s Green in Dublin. The Cork native has worked for Barry’s for the best part of 45 years and today he has invited me to take part in a flash course in the art of tea-tasting.
Laid out before me are four cups with the labels Kenya, Rwanda, Assam and Loose Leaf. I was poured four cups of tea and advised to add a dollop of milk.