Marese Bombino Bianca, Castel del Monte, Italy — €13.95
Research by Robert Hodgson has shown that a wine which wins one competition can come in the bottom third in another held a few days later.
One conclusion at Ballymaloe was that any judgement given to a wine can only be a snapshot in time of how the wine tasted for that person at that time. When and where you taste can strongly influence your judgement — this is an art not a science.
Spanish wine company Torres hosted a “Dine in the Dark” evening in Bodega Cava in Galway recently which showed just how much we rely on our sight when tasting wine or food. We were blindfolded throughout, and the event was in aid of the National Council for the Blind. JP McMahon’s inventive menu confused us utterly — for example I recognised the fig but not the foie-gras in one course and was convinced I tasted dill in the cured salmon when there was none, perhaps because I assumed it was gravadlax. I correctly identified a couple of the wines but Torres’ excellent Pinot Noir Mas Borràs (€32 in Redmonds or La Touche) wasn’t among them. The oak, rich fruit and silky texture confounded me (and other experienced tasters at the table, including Tomás Clancy, I hasten to add!).
While in Galway I also visited Thomas Woodberry’s Wines on Middle Street which is next door to Cava Bodega and well worth a visit if you are in the city. Founded in 2002 by Declan Owens and managed by Tadhg Byrne the shop has crammed hundreds of wines into its small space, a number of which they import.
Woodberry’s will be hosting tasting evenings in the next few weeks in their tasting room so if you want to brush up on your knowledge and taste some interesting wines: contact the shop on 091-533706 or via info@woodberrys.ie
Thomas Woodberrys Wines Galway, Redmonds
Bombino is similar to Trebbiano/Ugni Blanc and is widely grown in Italy but is most commonly found in Puglia where at its best it produces lightly fragrant crisp whites such as this example. Floral and light tropical aromas with good acidity and freshness on the palate. Perfect for a summer’s day and a big bowl of mussels.
JJ O’Driscoll, Bradleys, O’Brien’s, Supervalu; Martin’s Fairview, WineOnline.ie, good Independents
Made with a blend of Moscatel de Alejandria and a small percentage of Gewurztraminer (15%) this is a wine I always feel that tastes best outside with some spiced fish grilling on the barbecue. Cava Bodega served it with a fig and foie gras concoction which matched it perfectly. A rich aromatic wine with just enough acidity for antipasto or seafood.
JJ O’Driscoll, Bradleys, Sweeneys Glasnevin
Cava Bodega served this with lemon and rosemary flavours at the Torres Dine in the Dark evening and its lush intensity coped well with the sweet lemon and spiky rosemary. This would be excellent with apple tarts and crumbles and with fruit based desserts and also with some strong cheese.
Stockists: Thomas Woodberrys Wines Galway, Redmonds Ranelagh
Made on the hot dry plateau of Toledo in central Spain where “only the hardiest vines survive” (as the label says). Chocolate and black cherry aromas, chewy sweet fruit and despite eight months in new French oak the fruit is what dominates – dark brooding and intense.
Stockists: Thomas Woodberrys Wines Galway, Redmonds Ranelagh
Clare Valley is a little cooler and Shiraz from the valley can taste of mint and olives so the winemakers have added some fleshy sweet McLaren Vale fruit to add more texture and warmth.
Dense sweet plum and blackcurrant aromas, sweet ripe fruit and a bit of structure on the middle and finish.
Vineyard Galway, Jus de Vine, Drink Store D7, Wine Room Limerick
I picked this wine up in the Vineyard, another of Galway’s excellent wine shops. Fondrèche is from the Southern Rhone and is another good producer imported by Tyrrell’s Wines. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre (the holy trinity) – generously fruity and soft with lingering spicy plum fruits.
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