Beso de Vino Old Vine Garnacha, Cariñena, Spain — €11.99
The bad news is that this means we are unlikely to get a cut in the next budget, and small off-licences and specialist wine importers will continue to go out of business, just as they did last year.
All the more reason to shop local, and readers in Cork can go one better by buying some of the wines recommended this week from Wine Alliance based in Glanmire.
Maurice O’Mahony set up Wine Alliance in the middle of the current recession and has a tightly focused list of a few dozen wines from just three countries — Spain, Portugal and New Zealand. However, there are plans to more than treble the size of the list later this year.
Maurice is well known in Cork as a wine educator at Ballymaloe House and at l’Atitude 51 wine bar and was part of the team that brought the wine geese home for the Gathering. He recently completed his Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma which has around 45,000 students annually. Maurice also won the hugely prestigious Wine Australia Scholarship as the highest achieving European graduate. The award was presented at the Guildhall in London last month and includes a two week trip to Australia among other prizes.
Despite the duty increases, Maurice is optimistic about the future of wine here and he retains his faith in lesser known wines from Portugal and Spain. “If they taste these wines they always come back for more!” he says, and I think you will agree if you try some of the wines below.
¦ For the Diary: 15 Week WSET Level 3 Advanced Cert in Wines and Spirits begins this week. Contact O’Donovans Wine School — deirdre@odonovansofflicence.com — 021-4296060
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store, D7; Hollands, Bray
Cariñena is another one of those small Spanish regions worth keeping an eye on for inexpensive but eminently drinkable wines. Grenache vines definitely seem to improve with age giving smaller berries with richer flavours. This has solid juicy cherry and blackberry aromas with some fine spicy touches and lots of punchy flavour for its modest price.
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store, D7; Hollands, Bray
D„o in central Portugal is surrounded by mountains which regulate the climate perfectly. A blend of Encruzado, Cercial-Branco and Malvasia Fino, not names that trip off the tongue but all typical enough for D„o, particularly Encruzado. Fresh zesty aromas, a clean refreshing palate with good zing and fresh clean flavours.
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store, D7; Hollands, Bray
D„o is mainly known for its red wines and this is a blend of Portugal’s best known variety Touriga Nacional along with Alfrocheiro. Wines this price don’t always age well but this is holding up nicely with red fruits and stewed fruit on the nose and a structured but juicy palate with lingering sweet fruit.
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store D7, Hollands, Bray
Ribera del Duero is Spain’s second most famous wine region with wines that are usually a little richer and more full bodied than in Rioja. This has nice stewed plum aromas with tobacco hints, a solidly fruity palate and lingering red fruits with hints of liquorice. This needs rich hearty food to show it at its best — perhaps a pasta dish cooked with Fingal Ferguson’s Chorizo.
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store, D7; Hollands, Bray
The Tejo region (formally Ribatejo) is just south of Lisbon and relatively new to the export market. This is a blend of 50/50 Castel„o and Touriga Nacional and is barrel fermented and aged before release. Aromas of violets and red fruits with a rich complex fruit-driven palate, and lingering cherry and fleshy fruit flavours. Probably my favourite of Maurice’s wines.
Bradleys, North Main St, 1601 Kinsale; McHughs; Drink Store, D7; Hollands, Bray
Little Beauty wines are made by Eveline Fraser who was once winemaker at Cloudy Bay, New Zealand’s most famous property. This has lovely bright fresh aromas with apple, grapefruit and beeswax. On the palate there is a fine washed-stones mineral character and good acidity. Try this with spicy food or with smoked salmon from Frank Hederman or Sally Barnes.
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