Vina Tarapaca Carménère Reserva

I SPENT last Sunday’s sunny Bloomsday in Dublin city centre eating various Spanish tapas on the Campo Viejo Tapas Trail rather than mutton kidneys and Gorgonzola sandwiches, and while I did feel I was betraying one of the capital’s great traditions I suspect James Joyce would have approved.

The Campo Viejo Tapas trail continues in Dublin until Jul 17 and takes in a selection of tapas restaurants, including the Market Bar, Havana and the (Italian) Bagots and Hutton, which is a lovely (relatively) new wine bar on South William Street in an atmospheric old wine cellar.

The Cork Campo Viejo Tapas trail was in May but will return next year, and although Dublin’s trail is technically booked out some extra tickets are likely to be released so register at www.campoviejotapastrail.ie

Wine selections this week are a mix. In the under €10 section are a couple of interesting aged Tarapaca bin-ends that O’Donovans have sourced. I do age some wine at home but these tend not to be from Chile and not in the under €15 bracket, so I was curious to taste them especially their 2002 Carménère.

Carménère is the ancient Bordeaux grape that was thought lost until large quantities of it were discovered in Chile. In its youth Carménère can taste rather green and stalky, but a little ageing always softens that out so watch out for versions with bottle-age (Santa Rita Reserva Carménère usually has some). Syrah is something you will be seeing a lot more of from Chile (eg, from Vina Maipo) and I urge you to try it as it suits their climate.

* Diary: Wine Geese Dinner, Chapel Steps Restaurant, Bandon — Thursday, Jun 27, at 7.30 pm. Barry O’Farrell of the Bandon Wine Club joins forces with Anthony Tindal of Tindal Wines for a Wine Geese Dinner in Chapel Steps, Bandon, to give a brief history of the Irish connection with Bordeaux and a tasting of some well-known Wine Geese Wines. Call 023-8852581 to book.

Best value under €10

Vina Tarapaca Carménère Reserva — €7.99 (was €14.99)

Stockist: O’Donovans

Soft plum aromas, blackberry and blueberries on the palate with a hint of black cherries and chocolate on the finish along with some structure. The fresh fruit aromas have faded and yes this was at its best five or more years ago but I like the soft savoury flavours. Pour gently as there is lots of sediment.

Vina Tarapaca Syrah Reserva 2002 — €7.99 (was €14.99)

Stockist: O’Donovans

Blackcurrants and tar on the nose and following through on the palate and retaining quite a bit of structure. Again some more of the New World ripeness has fallen away and there is a small hole in the middle palate but there is still some fine mellow pleasure to be found which no other wine I know can offer at this price. Once again, watch out for harmless sediment.

Compass Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010 — €9.99 (was €12.99)

Stockist: O’Donovans

We still haven’t lost our love of Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand but there are very few priced under €10. Admittedly this would have been a small bit fresher if drunk a year or two ago, but it still has bright citrus and gooseberry aromas and lime infused acidity perfect for a warm day or a plate of seafood.

Best value under €20

Campo Viejo Reserva Rioja 2007 — €14.49

Stockists: Widely available in off-licences and supermarkets including Dunnes Stores, Tesco, SuperValu

Intense vanilla and coconut aromas mixed with some dark cherries and plum fruits. Very soft and ripe on the palate with sweet plums and berries and a touch of spicy elegance on the finish. Few Rioja at this price offer this much ripeness and while it worked with the tapas, it paired well with chorizo.

Soave Montforte 2012 — €11.99-12.99

Stockists: Redmonds Ranelagh, Andersons Dublin 9, Eldons Clonmel, Jus de Vine Portmarnock

Soave can be insipid but this one is the opposite with lively lemon and almonds aromas on the nose, creamy lemon on the palate with a nice fresh lemon finish and a solid lingering slightly chalky quality. If you like this, you’ll love Pieropan Soave even more (similar stockists but costs over €20).

Chateau de la Ligne Bordeaux Supérieur 2007 — €14.99 (was €19.99)

Stockist: O’Donovans

The 2007 vintage was a little lighter than the two before and after, but it has the advantage of very competitive prices if not quite the richness of the 2009 and 2010. This has very pleasant cedar and plum aromas and lovely elegant fruit on the palate along with some decent structure and length. Char-grilled steak from the barbecue would love this wine.