Wine: Quinta el Refugio
Rias Baixas is the main wine growing region in Galicia in north west Spain which is as green and rainy as Ireland (if a little warmer) and home to aromatic and lively Albariño grape which manages to be floral and fresh tasting.
Rias Baixas means lower estuary as it is around the lower estuaries that the grape growing is concentrated. The region’s DO (Denominacion de Origen) was created in 1988 and there are now 177 wineries sourcing grapes from 6,500 growers on 4,000 hectares of land. Many of the growers (and quite a few wine makers) are women and it surely cannot be a coincidence that the style of wine produced seems particularly appealing to those with two X chromosomes.
Most growers sell to co-operatives, but in the south of the appellation near Portugal there are larger estates. In the lower regions the wines tend to be a little softer while in the north they tend to have more acidity but the floral character of the grape comes out almost everywhere.
The wine region is pronounced Ree-ass By-shas but feel free to just ask for it by the grape variety as it is not really grown anywhere else (the Australians discovered recently that their “Albariño” was actually Savignan from the Jura).
Although Albariño is the primary variety do not be put off by blends as a little Loureira or Caiño Blanco can add some depth and minerality. Albariño is best drunk within four years after which it loses some of its floral character.
As well as the Albariños highlighted below I also recommend Valdamor (World Wide Wines), Terras Gauda Rosal (Matsons Bandon), Santiago Ruiz and Valmiñor.
* For the Diary: Irish Wine Geese Talk by Tomás Clancy, Crawford Gallery Cork, Thursday, Apr 25, at 6.30. Admission €10. Part of the Ballymaloe Literary Festival. thegrainstoreatballymaloe.com
Quinta el Refugio 2011, Toro — €9.99-€10.99
Stockists: JJ O'Driscoll Superstore, Cork. Redmonds, Ranelagh; independents
From the fashionable Toro region and made from 100% Tinto de Toro (the local name for Tempranillo). Dark purple colour, aromas of smoke and chocolate, ripe dark fruit flavours with a pleasing earthiness and depth and a long finish.
Viña Albali Verdejo 2012, Valdepeñas — €8 (sale price)
Stockist: Superquinn
Verdejo is arguably Spain’s second best white grape variety after Albariño and is most famously from the Rueda region in Castilla y Leon. This bargain version is from a warmer region but still manages to retain lots of fresh lime and laurel aromas with crisp acidity and a refreshing bite.
La Bicycleta Tempranillo-Garnacha 2011 — €7.99-€8.99
Stockist: Mace, CostCutter, Independents
Bright and juicy with red fruits and cherries and touches of plums. Drinkable on its own but will show better if served with a chickpea and chorizo stew or perhaps a rustic paella. The white is worth a punt also.
Martín Codax Albariño 2011, Rías Baixas — €16.99
Stockists: Widely available, O’Briens, independents
The first Albariño I ever tasted and still iconic. Made by a co-op with hundreds of members with tiny holdings and named after a medieval poet. White pepper and white flowers, light apple and orange hints, good acidity and a little more mineral than most.
Xión Albariño 2011, Rias Baixas — €14.49-€14.99
Stockists: O’Donovans
From the same region as Martín Codax near the lovely medieval city of Pontavedre. Floral aromas with touches of yellow apple, clean lemony fresh acidity on the palate with more apple and some lemon peel and a lingering fresh finish. Benchmark stuff.
Paco & Lola Albariño 2011, Rias Baixas — €14.99
Stockists: Dunnes, Superquinn, SuperValu
This is often on special offer in supermarkets for as little as €11 so keep an eye out and buy as much as you can once the price drops. Also from a co-op with excellent marketing sense — check out the funky label. Crisp and fresh, perhaps a little less floral than the others but still complex and satisfying.
