Cimarosa New Zealand Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc

NEW ZEALAND wine producers held their annual wine fair in Dublin earlier this month and it seems Ireland is now their fifth largest export market with sales having increased by around 12% in 2012.

Most of the wine we drink from New Zealand is still of course Sauvignon Blanc but also increasingly Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. New Zealand has a wider range of climates than it is usually given credit for and while these three varieties were on most tables at the wine fair there were also opportunities to taste Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Gruner Veltliner and Syrah.

Pinot Noir is still the star in red wine and it was interesting to taste the regional variations from the plum and chocolate flavoured ones from Wairarpa on the North Island to the bright red fruit flavours in Marlborough, to the black cherry and herbal notes from the wines of Central Otago. Central Otago is the world’s most southerly vineyard and has been made famous in recent times by the excellent wines produced by the actor Sam Neill. Pinot Noir was first cultivated in the 19th century but it was really only in the last decade or two that we in Ireland became aware of just how good it could taste. Sadly it is never a cheap wine and this is mainly due to the low yields necessary for producing any reasonable level of quality. The new duty rates have caused chaos in pricing and margins for shops and restaurants and this will not help New Zealand given that virtually all of their best known brands already cost over €12 — there are interesting times ahead.

Speaking of duty rates, prices have in fact yet to settle down properly and it will be after Easter before we have a full view of the situation — many shops and restaurants are still reeling. Famed vegetarian restaurant Café Paradiso has taken this as an opportunity to completely change their wine list and introduce sensible margins with a flat rate on every bottle. In addition all wines will be available by the glass or in various carafe sizes.

Best value under €10

Cimarosa New Zealand Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc 2012 — €9.99

Stockist: Lidl

One of only a handful of decent New Zealand whites that I have found under a tenner, this has lovely nettle and gooseberry aromas mixed with lime. On the palate was fresh gooseberry essence, decent weight and acidity and a nice mineral finish — typicité as they would say in France.

Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2012 — €9-12

Stockists: Widely available, Superquinn, Dunnes

Oyster Bay has been devalued a little in recent years, given how often it is on special offer, but it is still worth checking out. The 2012 Sauvignon is one of the better Oyster Bays I have tasted with soft aromas of nettles and lime flowers and a bright lime and green apple flavour, with gooseberry and cut grass.

Hidden Cove Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011— €9.99 (was €14)

Stockist: O’Briens

This is only on special offer for the next week or two with relatively limited quantities available. Bright fresh citrus aromas with green apples. On the palate there was a light fresh acidity and a softer and lighter tone than is typical from New Zealand.

Best value under €20

Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling Marlborough 2012 — €13.99

Stockists: Dunnes, Tesco, Galvins Cork, Next Door

Riesling is a good grape for New Zealand given their climate so let’s hope we see more of it — and let’s hope more Irish people open their minds to all the wonderful dry Rieslings from the Antipodes which are still a difficult sell. This had lovely lemon and lime aromas with a lovely fluency and purity to the fruit.

Brancott Estate Marlborough Pinot Noir 2011 — €14.99

Stockists: Dunnes, Superquinn, independents

Brancott Estate’s Sauv Blanc is on special offer in Dunnes this week for €11.50. This Pinot Noir undergoes long, cold maceration to bring out the fruit character and it shows. Damson and cherry fruit on the nose, supple ripe complex fruit-driven palate with balance and not a little complexity.

Wither Hills Wairau Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010 — €17.99

Stockists: Widely Available, O’Donovans Cork, Molloys Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny.

Wither Hills is always reliable and this didn’t disappoint. Cherries was the first note followed by meaty aromatic touches. Soft and fruity on the palate with a lovely balance and texture and ripe red fruit. The Sauv Blanc is also recommended.