Wine: Domaine de la Chauvinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine
In the house I grew up in, that wine was Liebfraumilch and it was purchased twice a year — at Christmas, and when my Auntie Dor visited from England in the summer, and you can probably guess the names (hint: it was usually either ‘black’ or ‘blue’).
The only quality wine I remember from the 1970s that you can still find is Faustino Rioja, which was brought to our house by my parent’s best friends when they came to play cards (25 or, occasionally, Whist).
Faustino was founded in 1861 and their first wines were produced a year later, which makes 2012 their 150th year.
Faustino held celebratory dinners in Cork (Jacobs on the Mall) and in Galway and Dublin recently, and served some of their legendary wines, as well as some of their newer offerings.
What was surprising to me was how well the Faustino ages, with all the vintages we were served showing remarkably well. The oldest vintage we tasted was the 1964, which is widely considered to be the best vintage in the history of Rioja, and its aroma was less of red grape juice than of cinnamon and cigar boxes. The taste, however, was remarkably silky and balanced with lovely, lingering, spiced fruit flavours.
The 1970 was sweeter and denser, but also remarkably drinkable, and the 1981 was the most fragrant, with a sweet, subtle, spicy character.
While I realise that these bottles are not generally available, you do, occasionally, find older vintages in dusty shops and on the back shelves of long-established off licences. Alternatively, buy the widely available 1999 vintage, and lock it away in the spare bedroom with a booby trap and a ‘do not touch until 2030’ notice attached.
The wines this week are a mix of Faustino’s newer wines, and a couple of blasts from the past that you might like to rediscover.
Stockists: O’Briens Off Licence Limerick, Dublin, Galway and Douglas Cork
A classic of the ‘70s and ‘80s Muscadet sales nose-dived in the past few years and it’s long overdue a comeback. Aromas and flavours of pears and limes, crisp and refreshing. Drink as an aperitif or with a dozen oysters.
Stockists: Aldi
At this price you shouldn’t expect too much depth and complexity, and taking that into account I liked this wine’s juicy raspberry aroma and its pleasing light fruity qualities, and I found that those fruit flavours lingered quite nicely.
Stockists: O’Briens Off Licence Limerick, Dublin, Galway and Douglas Cork
My first holiday in France in 1994 was spent in Gascony so that I could drink wines like this one. A hint of white peaches and lemon zest on the nose and a fresh zingy palate.
Stockists: Widely available in Dunnes, Tesco, SuperValu and Independents
This is the younger brother of Faustino I and tends to be a little more fruit driven given that it spends less time in oak and is released earlier. Aromas of vanilla and black fruits with lots of fruit and spice on the palate.
Stockists: 1601 Off Licence, Kinsale; The Beer Garden, Turners Cross, Cork
This is available in a nice gift pack this Christmas. Ripe red fruit aromas with violets and a touch of tobacco and oak evident. Easy drinking with good fruit-driven flavours and a light touch.
Stockists: Independents, www.cellarmaster.ie, O’Donovans
Also 100% Tempranillo with distinct aromas of candied fruit, plums and vanilla (from the oak). Rich and supple on the palate with lingering dark fruit flavours and soft tanins.
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