THE A-Z OF LONDON STYLE
Model, muse, TV presenter, front row fixture — Alexa Chung is the epitome of the nu-London generation. Her signature schoolgirl look espoused the sell-out ‘Alexa’ satchel courtesy of British brand Mulberry with the Somerset firm now valued at over £1 billion. Economists call it ‘The Alexa Effect’.
Bijou, family-run, opulent or downright kooky — London’s boutique circuit is a testament to its spirit of individualism. Shop for names like Christopher Kane and Holly Fulton at Matches (matchesfashion.com), do ‘concept’ at places like Browns (brownsfashion.com) and b Store (bstorelondon.com), or delve into the completely offbeat at socialite hangout The Village Bicycle (iamabicycle.com).
If London’s style set appear well-heeled it’s not without good reason. Its prestigious Cordwainers College has produced a cache of cult cobblers from the quirky architecture of Nicholas Kirkwood to Charlotte Olympia’s ’40s glamour and the elegant artisan work of Rupert Sanderson. Not mad on heels? Kick it in a pair of must-have Church’s brogues.
London rewrites the definition of department stores with its iconic retail giants. The window displays of Selfridges’ (selfridges.com) and Liberty & Co. (liberty.co.uk) are legendary, as is the mere mention of fashion behemoths Harvey Nichols (harveynichols.com) and Harrods (harrods.com). As for innovation, Dover Street Market’s (doverstreetmarket.com) converted Georgian building remains a citadel to directional style, with Westfield (uk.westfield.com/london) the latest model in designer malls.
If cool were a postcode, it would be Dalston, E8. The provenance of a new generation of designers such as Simone Rocha and JW Anderson, not to mention band The Horrors and Irish stylist Celestine Cooney, Dalston is without doubt Hackney’s hot bed of talent.
It’s the biannual fashion event that doubles as a celebration of the stylish British. Inside the tented catwalks of Somerset House next season’s collections are revealed, while outside the city’s streets, bars and footpaths become de facto runways for its en route models, photographers and celebrities.
Anglo-Irish socialite, heir to Arthur Guinness and muse to designers from the late Alexander McQueen to Philip Treacy, the outré Guinness is not just a couture collector but a bona fide style icon. Known for her signature bi-coloured beehive, love of armour and platform shoes, the heiress recently auctioned off a specially-curated collection from her wardrobe at Christie’s London for the Isabella Blow Foundation.
Heritage is a fashion birthright, at least that’s what the Brit brands are saying. With model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne fronting all things Burberry, Hunter and Barbour colonising summer festivals, and Pringle’s ascension to hot ticket status, the need for tweed has never been cooler.
Ireland’s most radical fashion exports continue to colonise the capital from milliner Philip Treacy to knitwear impresario Tim Ryan, not to mention father and daughter John and Simone Rocha, Maherafelt native JW Anderson and Lady Gaga’s body armour artisan Úna Burke.
Dazzling is done oh-so-discretely under the auspices of the finest British bling merchants. For bespoke baubles, Boodles has six generations of experience and a permanent exhibition at the V&A museum to prove it. Fancy a crown or a coronet? Try Asprey the 18th century luxury brand with a Royal Warrant for its craftsmanship and design. As for diamonds, go east to the Hatton Garden district and be dazzled by De Beer’s.
As one of the world’s top-earning models, Kate Moss can afford to be somewhat laissez-faire. It’s this devil-may-care attitude that has ironically turned this Croydon gal into a bona fide style icon with her signature skinny jeans, ballet flats and skull scarves mainstream must-haves. As for raucous rock-n-roll romances and frequent tabloid fodder, these haven’t quite caught on.
Developed by Regent Street department store Liberty & Co., this iconic floral print has populated everything from shirts to scarves, watches and dresses. It has since made the critical urban mainstream crossover, co-opted recently by uber cool London brands: b Store, Fred Perry and Dr Martens.
Alexander McQueen broke ground in the fashion industry with his combination of Savile Row precision and flamboyant couture nous. Dubbed ‘l’enfant terrible’ for his provocative runway presentations, the designer’s impact on the international fashion scene was as shocking as his untimely death in 2010.
Although London’s edge is renowned, a soft centre does abide in a diadem of romantic designers. Floral master Erdem, boho savant Matthew Williamson and royal regular Issa have all won the hearts of the style set with diaphanous confections worthy of wind machine salute.
Oxford Street’s reputation as Europe’s busiest shopping drag is not without merit. Approximately 100 million shoppers annually frequent its 300 stores, including flagship favourites House of Fraser, Selfridges, John Lewis and Topshop’s five-storey citadel.
When Victoria Beckham unveiled her 10-piece debut dress collection at New York Fashion Week in 2008, she won over the style critics, ratifying the former Spice Girl’s position as a bona fide designer. Editors have since responded with equal enthusiasm to her subsequent streamlined collections which now include accessories and handbags.
The recent 2012 Jubilee celebrations for Her Royal Majesty have netted the fashion industry an estimated £750 million. One is impressed. Not forgetting her granddaughter-in-law too, one Catherine Middleton.
As a byword for traditional men’s bespoke tailoring, Savile Row remains unparalleled. The short street, which cuts a dash through London’s Mayfair, remains one of the city’s most dapper, attracting a made-to-measure client list from Winston Churchill and Napoleon III to Michael Jackson and Prince Charles.
She’s one of the most sought-after designers in the industry with A-listers clamouring to wear her fur- and leather-free fare. Yes, Stella McCartney may have a Beatle for a father but her ascent to fashion royalty was an act of sheer talent. Having honed her skills at Central Saint Martins and Chloe before launching her self-titled line in 2001, McCartney has gone on to collaborate with H&M and Adidas with her most recent coup as Team GB’s creative director for the 2012 Olympics.
Style staples don’t get any smarter than the time-honoured trenchcoat. Although its invention is still hotly contested by Brit brands Burberry and Aquascutum, the enduring appeal of this wardrobe warrior is undeniable. K-Mid fans saw the Duchess’ classic Burberry creation sell-out in one day, while Victoria Beckham’s most recent caped creation elevates the humble garment to new fashion heights.
The 2012 redux of Union Jack-inspired fashion fare squarely points at the Jubilee and Olympic celebrations. Cast your minds back to the late ‘70s punk culture for a more anti-establishment use of the flag. Unless you count Gerri Halliwell’s equally subversive fashion statement the 1997 Brit Awards. Ah, The Spice Girls. How could we forget?
This magazine mogul is 96 years old, attracts more than one million readers and charges advertisers £25,100 a page to feature in her hallowed fashion bible. She’s rich, powerful and damn good-looking. Who is she? Why, Vogue, of course darling!
Having a claim to fame is something Dame Vivienne Westwood does in multiples. The designer and political activist, who is credited with having mainstreamed punk fashion, also bears the honour of co-opting the corset, tartan and platforms into fashion history,1 not to mention receiving her OBE from the Queen while knickerless.
James Bond isn’t the only undercover agent to come out of London. The capital is also renowned for its legendary lingerie labels. Agent Provocateur has established itself as the go-to gal for Hollywood-inspired underpinnings. Boudoir queen Myla, on the other hand, is not only (in)famous for its A-list clientele, but for its bedroom toys and equally naughty lace and freshwater pearl G-string.
You’re not anyone in this town unless you’ve got a slash in your job title. Try model/blogger or DJ/model or even designer/DJ and watch the shutterbugs line up. Names to note: Henry Holland (designer/blogger); Pixie Geldof (model/singer); Daisy Lowe (model/DJ).
Pop quiz time! What do the swinging ’60s, ’70s punk, and ’90s Cool Britannia have in common? Apart from being key moments in the fashion zeitgeist, they all started in London, baby!
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