Wine with Leslie: Who says rosé is just for summer? Here are three worth drinking year round

Rosé sales have soared in Ireland this summer
Glass of rosé wine being poured at a picnic setting on a summer's day.

Glass of rosé wine being poured at a picnic setting on a summer's day.

The last rosé of summer? Do we have to stop drinking pink now that September is nearly upon us? I don’t think so.

The long stretch of warm sunny days sent rosé sales soaring this summer and I don’t know about you but in this house we drank more rosé than red and white wine added together in July and August.

Shops I’ve spoken to all report a big jump in rosé sales and if we get any kind of Indian summer I can see us drinking the pink stuff until Hallowe’en and maybe beyond. And why not? Rosé is a natural crowd pleaser, the good ones are balanced, easy to drink, with acidity and fruit in harmony. Rosé is a great all-rounder, it doesn’t overwhelm food, it works with what it’s given unlike many a rich red or fragrant white.

Cork native Ray O’Connor MW released his first rosé this year (see below) and is an ambassador for Wines of Provence. “Provence played the long game,” he told me, “their rosé was already the market leader but they took steps to make sure it stayed that way.”

In 1999, Provence set up the Centre de Rosé to study everything from fermentation temperatures to oxygen management to skin contact levels as well as vineyard analysis looking at canopy management (to protect the grapes from heat), grapes and soils. This has led to a significant jump in consistency and quality and you can taste it in even basic supermarket Provence rosé.

Ray chose to go to Coteaux d’Aix en Provence for his wine, which often makes a cooler, fresher style than its larger neighbour Côtes de Provence. Of course, rosé in general has also gotten noticeably better in Italy, Spain and elsewhere but below I recommend two from Provence and one from Kylie (not the wine region, the cultural phenomenon).

La Grand Palme Rosé, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, €15.74

Made by Cork-born Ray O’Connor MW and a classic example of Provence rosé, fruity, taut and balanced. Night-harvested grapes with soft pressing so this is a pale, onion skin pink with floral raspberry aromas, a bright clean palate with red fruits and cherry skin textures balanced by clean acidity.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence offers a ‘more glacial style’ Ray says, and on tasting his wine, I agree.

  • O’Briens

Château de Gairoird, Côtes de Provence Organic Rosé, €17

Reduced from €23 until September 2, this is the last week to avail of the O’Briens rosé offers which are across the board.

This old Provence estate is in the same family since 1824 and converted to organic around 15 years ago. Pours a pretty pale pink/gris colour with citrus and light rasp-berry aromas. Textured on the palate with fruit balanced by acidity, some nice saline freshness and more weight than you would expect from the hue.

  • O’Briens

Kylie Rosé, Vin de France, €10-12

Celebs were quick to jump on the rosé band wagon but most are utterly forgettable.

This is an exception I think, still very commercial but eminently drinkable. Not from Provence but in a similar vein and in a stylish bottle (I would expect no less!)

Pale pink with floral notes and tangy citrus and strawberry fruits, some textures and a crisp finish.

Wayward Spirits Smoky Gin, 39% ABV, 70cl, €45

From Sir Maurice O’Connell (a descendant of The Liberator) this is a sipping gin finished in a peated whiskey cask.

I know it sounds odd but trust me it works as the peating is relatively subtle, just go very easy on the tonic and add an olive.

Juniper, spice and light smoke aromas, smooth attack with extra peat smoke coming through on the punchy spiky finish.

Carry Out Killarney, carryoutkillarney.ie; Castle Tralee; Celtic Whiskey; Corkscrew; independents; waywardirish.com

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