Wine with Leslie: Three Champagnes inspired by women that you need to try

Toast the women of Champagne with these drinks

Fri, 26 Dec, 2025 - 01:00

Women winemakers are commonplace these days, but no region owes as much of its success to women as Champagne.

Courtesans were the first Champagne influencers and powerful women like Madame de Pompadour (chief mistress of Louis XV) popularised Champagne at court. In the 19th century, widows drove innovation, including Louise Pommery who created the first dry style and Barbe Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, who created the first vintage Champagne, invented riddling (to remove sediment), and created the first blended rosé.

In the mid-20th century women like Lily Bollinger and Odette Pol-Roger were hugely important.

Madame Clicquot was 27 when she was widowed and took the reins, and in mid-November I had a chat with another 27-year-old from Veuve Clicquot, their red wine maker, Louise Grillet.

“We only use Pinot Noir for the rosé and up to 45% reserve wines,” she says. This is far more than the average for Champagne.

Veuve Rosé uses 12-15% red wine (again higher than usual), “adding this amount of red increases the complexity, adds colour, fruit and tannins, and allows the wine to age for much longer,” she continued. “We have 400 different ferments, and our use of reserve wines helps set us apart,” she continued.

I was impressed by Louise and wouldn’t be surprised to hear of her being appointed as chef de caves at a Champagne house in the near future.

Around 17% of Grande Marque chef de caves are women, and 40% of Grower Champagnes are women-owned. Sandrette Logette-Jardin was the first chef de caves and is now 20 years at Duval-Leroy, and among the many worth a mention are Elisabeth Sarcelet at Delacourt (from M&S for just €40), Caroline Letrive at Deutz (Bubble Bros €66) and Julie Cavile at Krug.

Pommery Champagne Brut Royal NV, €50-60

Louise Pommery arguably created modern Champagne by introducing the first dry Champagne in 1874, she also developed the first modern ageing cellars.

Pleasingly persistent mousse, pear and white fruit aromas with a good touch of brioche and a flash of rose petal.

Fruity, lively and round with elegance and persistence. Just €50 in Dunnes Stores.

Dunnes Stores; O’Briens; wineonline.ie

Duval-Leroy Champagne Brut NV, France, €55-57

A woman-led Champagne with Carol Duval-Leroy as head of the house, and Sandrine Logette-Jardin as chef de cave since 2005. Still independent and family-run I’ve always had a soft spot for Duval-Leroy.

The NV has fine bright ripe fruit aromas mixed in with the brioche and citrus notes, a fine elegant mousse, herbal and citrus notes and lingering toasty complexity.

JJ O’Driscolls; Curious Wines Cork, curiouswines.ie

Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé Champagne, €80

Created in 1818, and the first blended rosé Champagne (Ruinart’s skin-contact rosé was a little earlier).

Rosy pink colour, ripe strawberry and cherry aromas, white peach and nuts but also spice and walnuts.

Silky and rich on the palate, rounded and fleshy, cherry skins and pomegranate, with grip, complexity, and elegance, this is a hugely satisfying Champagne.

Watch for the version in the Smeg fridge.

Bradleys; Bubble Brothers; O’Briens; Ardkeen

Whiskey of the week: Ballina Single Malt ‘Dúbailte’ Irish Whiskey, 43% ABV, €50

This is one of two brand new releases for Ballina Distillery (formerly Connacht); a triple-distilled triple-oaked expression, and this double-distilled, double-oaked edition (oloroso and bourbon).

The double is pleasingly light and fruity with honey and pear drop aromas, a smooth sweet palate with fudge, butter caramel and nuts, lingering peppery walnuts on the finish.

A delicious debut.