Wine with Leslie: What I learned about Les Deux Cols wines — and why wild boar are a challenge

Showcasing Les Deux Cols wines

I’m not sure I dream of having my own vineyard anymore

Almost everyone I know that loves wine dreams of having their own vineyard, but I’m not sure I do anymore. I’ve seen too many vineyards up close and I know about the back breaking work and worries. Simon Tyrrell hosted a dinner at Ballymaloe House last month to showcase the wines of Les Deux Cols which he farms with Charles Derain (Nomad Wines) and Gerard Maguire (64 Wine).

Their fine pure wines matched the pristine flavours in Ballymaloe Executive Chef Dervilla O’Flynn’s elegant dishes. They organically and regeneratively farm 12 hectares where the Gard Départment meets the Ardèche between the Rhône river and the Cévennes mountains, Avignon is to the south east.

The vineyards are surrounded by forests, and the air is a little cooler, the soils are sandy, here which gives floral notes to the wines. Located at 200m altitude which may not sound like a lot but is significant for keeping the wines fresh. Twelve hectares is manageable with just one tractor and a couple of hands so they are sticking with that size for now.

The forests may help the vines but they also contain wild boar who are particularly fond of ripe grapes and they stripped one vineyard clean this year (they
managed to salvage 60 kilos of grapes from one vineyard rather than the 4000kg they expected).

More recently, Les Deux Cols have been looking to white wines (as is the region generally). An unexpected highlight of the meal was La Lumière (Ardkeen Stores, Green Man, 64 Wines) made from 85% Clairette Blanc with a little Bourboulenc to add texture. I loved its floral aromas and ripe fruit peach flavours. Three Rhône wines to try below, two from Simon and one from the Northern Rhône that was too good not to include.

Alizé Vin de France 2023, Rhône, France, €23.95

From organic grapes grown on a cool site with sandy soils and from 100% Grenache.

Labelled as ‘vin de France’ but Côtes du Rhône vineyards. Sweet fruit, broad palate, red and darker fruits fill the mouth, full flavoured with spice touches and a lively freshness. A fine introduction to the wines of Les Deux Cols and the region.

• MacCurtain Wine Cellar; 64 Wines, 64wine.ie; Wine Pair; Barnhill Stores; Fíon Eile; Fallon & Byrne

La Degève, Vind de France, Southern Rhône, France, €48

Les Deux Cols top wine, 750 bottles from a 0.3ha site in the “Les Fonts” vineyard at 200m altitude.

This had high-quality Châteauneuf-du-Pape vibes for me with gorgeous fat ripe fruit flavours. Red fruits, floral aromas, and purity, despite its full ripe fruits this 100% Grenache also had delicacy and an electric streak of acidity. Stunning.

• O’Learys Cootehill; Mistervini Mullingar; Good Life Wicklow; McHughs; 64 Wines, 64wine.ie

Domaine Pochon Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2022, €28

This is exclusive to Whelehans in Loughlinstown, I featured their peachy bright white Crozes-Hermitage before but not this ripe complex red.

Classic Northern Rhone Syrah aromas of blackcurrant confit with a touch of tar, luscious and full on the palate with ripe blackberry fruits, some tangy structural (integrated) tannins provide mouthfeel, and the finish is layered and long with black wine gum notes. Delicious.

• Whelehans Wines, whelehanswines.ie

Spirit of the week: Green Spot, 100th Anniversary Single Pot Still 10yr, 46% ABV, 70cl, €85-90

Green Spot is 100 years old and this new edition is a celebration of one of our greatest whiskies.

There’s even a gift box with green paint included (as used on the barrels).

Bourbon & Sherry cask aged with sweet vanilla and honey aromas, a creamy nutty attack with pepper and spice on the finish and lingering fudge notes.

Bradleys; O’Briens; Corkscrew; Mitchell & Son; spotwhiskey.com