Wine with Leslie: What I learned about Les Deux Cols wines — and why wild boar are a challenge

Showcasing Les Deux Cols wines

I’m not sure I dream of having my own vineyard anymore

Fri, 21 Nov, 2025 - 14:00

Leslie Williams has been the Irish Examiner's wine columnist since 2012 and has been reviewing restaurants since 2015.

Almost everyone I know that loves wine dreams of having their own vineyard, but I’m not sure I do anymore. I’ve seen too many vineyards up close and I know about the back breaking work and worries. Simon Tyrrell hosted a dinner at Ballymaloe House last month to showcase the wines of Les Deux Cols which he farms with Charles Derain (Nomad Wines) and Gerard Maguire (64 Wine).

Their fine pure wines matched the pristine flavours in Ballymaloe Executive Chef Dervilla O’Flynn’s elegant dishes. They organically and regeneratively farm 12 hectares where the Gard Départment meets the Ardèche between the Rhône river and the Cévennes mountains, Avignon is to the south east.