Wine with Leslie: Rediscovering an Italian grape that almost went extinct

The Pecorino grape was brought back from the brink of extinction in the past two decades and now fills the wine lists and shelves during my recent visit to Italy

Fri, 06 Jun, 2025 - 12:50

Leslie Williams

As I write this, I’m still on an Italian high, having spent the last 10 days in the college city of Pescara in Abruzzo on the Adriatic Sea. My son is studying there (Planetary Geosciences, since you ask), and having a brilliant time.

We could see why he loves it, the weather is warm, the beach is just a few minutes walk from his apartment (and from where we were staying), and the food and wine are excellent and great value.

We ate dozens of arrosticini (lamb skewers that cost €1-€1.20 each), we ate fish fresh from the Adriatic either steamed or fried as fritto misto, and lots of fresh pasta, either with shellfish or in tomato sauce with tiny meatballs.

We also visited gorgeous hilltop towns such as Castel del Monte and marvelled at the mountains and the stunning scenery in all directions, and we met no other tourists. As you might expect, we drank Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, that richly fruited, supple red wine that is the house wine in almost every Italian restaurant.

Montepulciano has jumped in quality in the last 20 years, and it is rare to find a poor one, even if you are spending less than €12. Also watch for wines from Terre di Chieti IGT, and don’t forget the whites and rosés.

For whites, Abruzzo used to be known for Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, but I hardly saw any; instead, it was Pecorino that filled the wine lists and shelves. The Pecorino grape was brought back from the brink of extinction in the past two decades.

It is fragrant, has good sugar levels, bright acidity and copes well with heat as well as altitude, so is suited to Abruzzo. We also drank lots of Cerasuolo, the rich fruity rosé also made from Montepulciano. We would go back to Abruzzo in a heartbeat.

Cataldi Madonna Giulia ‘Pecorino’, Abruzzo, Italy €27

Pecorino deserves to be better known and of the many I tasted in Abruzzo this was my favourite,
proving a fine match for fritt-misto and spaghetti alla vongole. Floral, lime, acacia and white peach aromas, weighty and round on the palate with balancing acidity and a citrus kick. Also watch for Pecorino from Zaccagnini, Tollo,
Ciu-Ciu and Gran Sasso.

Deveneys; Drinkstore.ie; Sweeneysd3.ie; Baggot St Wines; McHughs

Cantina Zaccagnini ‘Twiggy’ Cerasuolo, Abruzzo, Italy €17-20

Don’t be put off by the darker colour as it is typical of the region and is no indication of sweetness (the next vintage will be lighter).

Cerasuolo means ‘cherry’ and that is one of the primary aromas, along with raspberries and a touch of flora. Ripe and fruit-forward but dry and clean with balancing acidity and freshness.

SuperValu; Castle Tralee; Molloys; JJ O’Driscolls

Cantina Tollo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy €17.95

This is from a progressive co-op whose members farm organically. Hand harvested, minimum intervention winemaking is practised. Bright dark red-purple, violets, cherry and berry fruit aromas, ripe and fruity on the palate with touches of liquorice and blackberry.

Tollo’s other wines are also recommended including their Pecorino and their ‘Insetti’ red.

Bradleys; L’Atitude 51; WorldWideWines; GreenMan; Baggot St Wines; lecaveau.ie

Tipperary Whiskey 7 Year Single Malt ‘Sake Finish’ 50% ABV€119.95

Distilled from barley grown on their farm in Tipperary, this recently won a silver medal at the Tokyo Whisky & Spirits Competition, no mean feat.

Fresh blackcurrant, dried fruit and honey aromas, a creamy smooth, fruit-focused palate, pepper, spice and sake notes on the finish. Complex and rather thrilling — a perfect Father’s Day gift.