Seafood Made Simple: My Welsh Rarebit blends fish with cheese for an oceanic oomph

A fundamental ingredient to a rarebit is beer.

Season cautiously when making the rarebit mixture as the smoked haddock, Worcestershire sauce, and cheddar are all high in salt. Picture: Chani Anderson

The Welsh Rarebit, in my book, is the ultimate of all open-faced sandwiches. Packed with the umami layered ingredients of ale, cheese, and Worcestershire sauce. It’s a deeply moreish number.

I had my first rarebit in one of my all-time favourite restaurants, the renowned St John in London. Founded by the great chef Fergus Henderson, he’s a master of simplicity and the king of nose-to-tail cookery. His version includes English mustard powder and Guinness.