Wine with Leslie: Three red wines from Catalonia to try from €17
Pic: iStock
Around this time last year I was in Barcelona at Barcelona Wine Week and was struck, once again, by how much I love the wines of Catalonia (or Catalunya as they would say in Catalan).
As you have no doubt heard, this is a fiercely independent region and more than once I have had people on social media correct me when I referred to Catalan wines as ‘Spanish’.
There are lots of sub regions to learn about including Costers del Segra, Conca de Barbera, Penedès, Tarragona, Terra Alta, Priorat and Montsant. If a wine from any of these regions makes it to Ireland it is always worth taking a risk on.
The big producer in the region is Torres in Penedès and their wines sell well here because they are fairly priced and of consistent quality. Despite selling several million bottles every year they have long had a commitment to sustainability and for decades have been actively reviving ancient Catalan grape varieties that will be more suited to the region’s warming climate.
Penedès is the original home of Cava (although other regions can also now use the word), and the more recently created premium sparkling DO of ‘Corpinnat’ which rivals Champagne for quality and sometimes in price (e.g. Gramona, Llopart, Recaredo and Nadal).
Priorat is the most famous Catalan region, one of only two with a DOCa designation. The other is Rioja and, sadly, that is often the only wine region many Irish people know or care about. This is a real shame as for bargain hunters you really need to seek out the smaller regions. Priorat is expensive as it is just so difficult to grow grapes on the steep slate slopes of the region but nearby Montsant offers similar flavours as do other Catalan regions.
Three Spanish reds from Catalonia to try below including one from Empordà which I think is the first time I’ve mentioned this small region.
I’m a big fan of Montsant which is just down the hill from Priorat (see below). Both regions focus on Garnacha and Carignan, and while Priorat has a mineral streak the wines of Montsant can be just as tasty. This has Cabernet and Syrah added to the blend and offers fragrant red fruits with plums and blackberry notes, weighty darker fruits on the palate and pleasing ripeness.
Empordà is in the north east corner of Spain on the border with Roussillon and has similarly ancient winemaking traditions. This estate has grown grapes since medieval times but recently built a shiny modern winery. A blend of mostly Garnacha, Cabernet and Merlot, this has baked smoky dark fruits with spice and vanilla hints, juicy and supple with concentration and elegance.
This is reduced from €34 or so, as is Torres ‘Purgatori’ from nearby Costers del Segre - both are recommended. This is excellent value for a Priorat, blackberry and dark cherry aromas, supple and ripe on the palate with weight, ripe dark fruit flavours and not a little elegance. Other Priorat to try include Mas D’En Gil (Wines Direct), Camins del Priorat (Whelehans and Independents), L’Expressio del Priorat (Independents).
Brand new from Jameson this is triple distilled and triple casked (ex-Bourbon and Oloroso plus chestnut casks). This is the second Triple Triple release, the previous edition was a travel trade exclusive and included Malaga casks.
Honey, fudge and vanilla aromas, smooth on the palate with sweet woody notes from the chestnut and a prickle of spice and lingering butterscotch on the finish.
