Wine with Leslie: Organic wine can be good — but not a guarantee of quality
Pic: iStock
Organic wine is a good thing, right? You might be surprised to hear that not everyone thinks so.
In fact, I often get negative reactions to the word, usually stemming from an encounter with a ‘natural’ wine which had more ‘challenging flavours’.
To clarify: ‘organic’ means that only natural ingredients are used in the production of the wine and no damage has been done to the environment.
The skill of the winemaker is not taken into account. Chemical interventions are not permitted, with the exception of sulphur as a fungicide or anti-bacterial agent (sometimes mixed with copper).
Biodynamics is similar but adds in moon cycles and other elements (some mystical, some practical).
'Sustainable' is the other word wineries love — but is a little bit more nebulous so you will have to trust your importer/retailer, or examine the winery’s website in some detail.
O’Briens is hosting an ‘Eco Wine Sale’ this month featuring 25 wines from all over the globe including France, Chile, Italy, and New Zealand. There is a handy booklet you can pick up from the shops which gives more details on the producers.
Two I feature here are from wineries I have visited and was impressed by, in particular Musella near Verona, where winemaker Maddalena Pasqua was a bundle of enthusiasm and a joy to be around.
I was also impressed when I visited De Alberto in Rueda who are still making traditional ‘rancio’ Dorado (not unlike dry Oloroso) — sadly it would be a tough sell here.
Other wines in the O’Brien’s offer that I recommend include Rabl Grüner Veltliner (€14.95); Borie de Maurel Minervois (€14.95); and Alma Jumilla (€10).
The final wine this week is from Grape Circus who specialise in organic and natural wines and is found in retailers that similarly specialise such as Green Man Wines and MacCurtain Wine Cellar.
The Gutiérrez family has been making wine for five generations and in a 350-year-old winery with endless underground cellars.
Reduced from €15 this is a fine example of Verdejo with typical bay leaf and herbal aromas mixed with ripe apple — fruity and creamy on first sip before tangy lemon acidity and apple peel flavours kick in.
Reduced from €22.95 as part of O’Brien’s Eco sale this is gorgeous and new to the page (although I have mentioned their Amarone).
I visited this producer in 2019 and loved what I saw, endlessly experimental and quality across the range.
This has bright cherry fruits and a fruit-driven palate with lively, crunchy freshness on the finish.
Valtellina in the Lombardian alps is another of those small Italian DOC you need to know about, especially as they grow Nebbiolo (cf Barolo/Barbaresco).
There are not many around (Ely Wine Bar’s Ar-Pe-Pe Valtellina is another I recommend).
This Barbácan is packed with ripe berry fruits and some earthy, herbal-spice overtones — balanced, elegant and endlessly drinkable.
Alltech beers have had a much needed makeover recently and they remain great value. Brewed in Louth and part of the Pearse Lyons group (of Town Branch Bourbon and Pearse Lyons Whiskey).
This Italian Pilsner is perhaps not their strongest beer (the IPAs are better) but it has pleasing sweet barley flavours and some decent hoppy complexity.
