Restaurant review: This golden hashed-potato is one of the best potato dishes in the nation

Etto is still the metric of good taste

Etto is a small, rectangular room, with plain walls, simple tables, and a bar area. Picture: Moya Nolan

I don't bother with new year’s resolutions: I’m just too vain. I am trying to eat less, of course, but that is a monthly resolution, because it has been a long time since I’ve been able to close the button on any of my Italian-made jackets.

I had no chance of eating lightly in Etto, Dublin’s long-established Mediterranean restaurant (and sister to Uno Mas). I last reviewed Etto in 2015 and have visited often since, but not in the last two years.