Restaurant review: Driftwood delivers with generous plates and a dramatic bay view

"Driftwood itself is extraordinary. A striking assemblage of rectangular boxes of glass and local stone nestles in a little dimple in the undulating lawns, protecting it from the worst south westerly storms of the Atlantic..."

The view from Driftwood, looking toward Skellig Michael

• Driftwood Surf Café
• St Finian's Bay, Rathkerin, Rathkieran, Cahersiveen, Co Kerry
• driftwoodsurfcafe.com
• How to: Wed/Thurs, 5.30pm to 10.30pm; Fri to Sun, 5.30pm to 11pm
• The bill: €275 (excluding tip, including four cocktails, one mocktail, one bottle of wine)