“What I really wanted to do was open a café-deli,” says Maria Archer, her facial expression flitting along the register, trying to settle on a landing space somewhere between amusement and bemusement.
She still has to pinch herself that the ‘cafe-deli’ she owns and operates alongside her business partner, chef Ahmet Dede, a restaurant that was set to open on March 17, 2020, at the same time as the pandemic was drawing down the shutters across the entire hospitality sector, has since become one of the best restaurants in Ireland.
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